The only young Berlin designer to have staged 10 consecutive fashionshows during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, not to mention being thefirst to set the tone with live pop music accompaniment, Kilian Kernertried marking his label’s dramatic decade benchmark with high dramasilhouettes this season. To sometimes ungainly effect. But overlook thewalking sculpture gowns and asymmetric frippery, the glaring mustard andblack combos, and, for those who don’t have a soft spot for the earlyBeatles, Monkees et al, the bowler haircuts, Kerner’s line-up didinclude a lot of wear-me-now merch with uncomplicated appeal.

His men, very much in the minority this season, nonetheless retained amod edge. Highlights included sleek one-button suits and an elongatedthree-button jacket, topping pullovers and sometimes dark printed shirtsand ties, and believably wide pants snug in the back, shown plain frontin soft cord or in loosely pleated in flannel.

Kerner’s galsare a varied lot. Sometimes simply elegant in a little black silk blousewith and tight cigarette skirt smocked in the front. Cool yet cuddly intactile knits, which topped everything from a white sci-fi plasticA-line skirt, a lacquered and sequinned print gown, a bubble quiltedleather look skirt and printed T-shirt, slim, cropped cord pants orgoing it alone in a slinky, cowl neck dress. Or party hearty in sequins,glistening in burgundy, looking like a map of the world in a pastelprint, or encrusted in gold.

 

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