NEW YORK — "People always ask how I will change," said Olivier Theyskens, referring to his direction for Nina Ricci after his spectacular star turn at Rochas that ended in one of fashion's speediest and most peculiar divorces. "But I never thought about that. Your inspiration changes."
In New York this week to present his first pre-fall collection to retailers starting today, Theyskens nevertheless claimed to have played to the classic Ricci girl while designing his collection. The Ricci girl?
"Well," he admitted at a preview with WWD on Tuesday morning, "maybe I'm imagining her in my head." Which is fabulous news to those who mourned the shuttering of the Rochas ready-to-wear business because the designer's debut for Ricci radiates the same refinement and brooding undercurrent with which he so dazzled his Rochas audiences. The line he described as "maybe a little minimalism" features graceful, mannish tailoring and deceptively complicated, often curved cuts — including "half-bias" work — that result in seemingly nonchalant shapes: a black cocktail dress, its off-kilter twists barely perceptible, and suits with precision diagonal seams.
Much of the curvature and the mood of the collection itself was inspired by Theyskens' study of the L'Air du Temps bottle, with its swirling bowl and stopper of two frosted glass doves. "It's the ultimate postwar perfume," he said, and a perfect symbol for what he wants to be seen as a house of contrasts: "The doves are peace and lightness, but they will release into a world of urbanism and gray."
And, he might have added, commercialism. While Theyskens' glorious runway shows for Rochas were at most two-note affairs (and his spectacular swan song pre-spring looks will never see the light of retail), his Ricci launch features a relatively diverse lineup with a major emphasis on daywear. Though grounded in his signature gentle sobriety, there are wafts of obvious sexiness, flashes of bold color — reference Reese Witherspoon at the Golden Globes — and even a sassy street moment or two, as in the ribbon-wrapped jeans worn with an undone knitted cape.
As for such a digression from his celebrated propriety, he merely shrugged. "Any designer changes every season," Theyskens said. "There's still a lightness and fragility. And I'm building this [collection] maybe from every girl I've seen that was cool." Sounds — and looks — like a chic contrast of the delightfully salable sort.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye