NEW YORK — "People always ask how I will change," said Olivier Theyskens, referring to his direction for Nina Ricci after his spectacular star turn at Rochas that ended in one of fashion's speediest and most peculiar divorces. "But I never thought about that. Your inspiration changes."
In New York this week to present his first pre-fall collection to retailers starting today, Theyskens nevertheless claimed to have played to the classic Ricci girl while designing his collection. The Ricci girl?
"Well," he admitted at a preview with WWD on Tuesday morning, "maybe I'm imagining her in my head." Which is fabulous news to those who mourned the shuttering of the Rochas ready-to-wear business because the designer's debut for Ricci radiates the same refinement and brooding undercurrent with which he so dazzled his Rochas audiences. The line he described as "maybe a little minimalism" features graceful, mannish tailoring and deceptively complicated, often curved cuts — including "half-bias" work — that result in seemingly nonchalant shapes: a black cocktail dress, its off-kilter twists barely perceptible, and suits with precision diagonal seams.
Much of the curvature and the mood of the collection itself was inspired by Theyskens' study of the L'Air du Temps bottle, with its swirling bowl and stopper of two frosted glass doves. "It's the ultimate postwar perfume," he said, and a perfect symbol for what he wants to be seen as a house of contrasts: "The doves are peace and lightness, but they will release into a world of urbanism and gray."
And, he might have added, commercialism. While Theyskens' glorious runway shows for Rochas were at most two-note affairs (and his spectacular swan song pre-spring looks will never see the light of retail), his Ricci launch features a relatively diverse lineup with a major emphasis on daywear. Though grounded in his signature gentle sobriety, there are wafts of obvious sexiness, flashes of bold color — reference Reese Witherspoon at the Golden Globes — and even a sassy street moment or two, as in the ribbon-wrapped jeans worn with an undone knitted cape.
As for such a digression from his celebrated propriety, he merely shrugged. "Any designer changes every season," Theyskens said. "There's still a lightness and fragility. And I'm building this [collection] maybe from every girl I've seen that was cool." Sounds — and looks — like a chic contrast of the delightfully salable sort.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews