NEW YORK — "People always ask how I will change," said Olivier Theyskens, referring to his direction for Nina Ricci after his spectacular star turn at Rochas that ended in one of fashion's speediest and most peculiar divorces. "But I never thought about that. Your inspiration changes."
In New York this week to present his first pre-fall collection to retailers starting today, Theyskens nevertheless claimed to have played to the classic Ricci girl while designing his collection. The Ricci girl?
"Well," he admitted at a preview with WWD on Tuesday morning, "maybe I'm imagining her in my head." Which is fabulous news to those who mourned the shuttering of the Rochas ready-to-wear business because the designer's debut for Ricci radiates the same refinement and brooding undercurrent with which he so dazzled his Rochas audiences. The line he described as "maybe a little minimalism" features graceful, mannish tailoring and deceptively complicated, often curved cuts — including "half-bias" work — that result in seemingly nonchalant shapes: a black cocktail dress, its off-kilter twists barely perceptible, and suits with precision diagonal seams.
Much of the curvature and the mood of the collection itself was inspired by Theyskens' study of the L'Air du Temps bottle, with its swirling bowl and stopper of two frosted glass doves. "It's the ultimate postwar perfume," he said, and a perfect symbol for what he wants to be seen as a house of contrasts: "The doves are peace and lightness, but they will release into a world of urbanism and gray."
And, he might have added, commercialism. While Theyskens' glorious runway shows for Rochas were at most two-note affairs (and his spectacular swan song pre-spring looks will never see the light of retail), his Ricci launch features a relatively diverse lineup with a major emphasis on daywear. Though grounded in his signature gentle sobriety, there are wafts of obvious sexiness, flashes of bold color — reference Reese Witherspoon at the Golden Globes — and even a sassy street moment or two, as in the ribbon-wrapped jeans worn with an undone knitted cape.
As for such a digression from his celebrated propriety, he merely shrugged. "Any designer changes every season," Theyskens said. "There's still a lightness and fragility. And I'm building this [collection] maybe from every girl I've seen that was cool." Sounds — and looks — like a chic contrast of the delightfully salable sort.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)