The overall assessment: incremental improvement. Not only were events confined to an actual week (March 9 to 15, preceding this week’s fashion market) but the range of lines included a few promising newcomers. Style Fashion Week, a five-day event with almost 30 shows, had the endorsement of Mayor Eric Garcetti. “[The event] showcases a $13 billion industry that employs 100,000 people in the L.A. area, exports trends, designs and products to every corner of the world,” he said.
There were a handful of buyers and celebrities in attendance, including Christina Milian, Tamar Braxton, Joanna Krupa, Bridget Marquardt and Gretchen Rossi, plus regional newspapers and a few weeklies, but the audience was mostly comprised of designers’ friends, family and corporate sponsors such as L’Oréal Paris, Ford and UPS. Check-in was hassle-free, but those who arrived on time faced an average hour-long delay for each show.
What came down the runways ranged from men’s underwear to women’s evening gowns. In an effort to be inclusive, the mix at Style Fashion Week included swimwear, bridal, kids and plus-size lines, but the roster would have benefited from better curation and stronger editing (read: fewer looks) in each show.
The one-day Los Angeles Fashion Council and Concept Los Angeles events, showcasing 10 and 12 lines, respectively, did improve their curation this season. Returning line Stella Proseyn and newcomer Colton Dane were among the women’s wear standouts at LAFC, while Turkish eveningwear designer Özgür Masur brought a new degree of sophistication to the Concept runway.
Max Noce, owner of Orphic boutique in West Hollywood, attended Style and Concept Los Angeles events to support two of his lines, Ina Soltani and Jen Awad, respectively. “Jen’s collection was beautiful, and Ina’s collection has a very strong presence, edgy but at the same time very commercial and sellable,” he said.
Garcetti endorsed Style Fashion Week, pledging, “We won’t stop until L.A. is the fashion capital of the world.”
That means the city’s show organizers still have some work to do.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion