Call it hippie minus the dippy. A lightly bohemian style, seen in everything from fringed scarves to tribal embellishments, made its presence felt on the Paris runways.

Balmain: Over the last few seasons, Christophe Decarnin has shown talent for sexy, sparkling and dangerously short evening gear. While he continued down a similar path for spring, the designer, who has drawn some attention to the dusty house of Balmain, went Native (American) this time. A minidress came with an embroidered eagle and fringe, while another short dress was printed with a feather motif. But Decarnin's Pocahontas was hardly a one-look wonder — she could also do the bohemian thing, including a long flowing hippie-deluxe print dress with an intricately beaded bodice and a psychedelic tie-dyed dress embroidered with silver stars. Decarnin has found his niche in sexy party clothes, and while some may find his range limited, he definitely delivers the merch young "It" girls crave.

Vivienne Westwood: There are designers who have earned their laurels — and rest on them. These days, Vivienne Westwood seems to have reached that comfortable plateau in her career where churning out more of her greatest hits — with very subtle variations — is enough to keep the machine chugging along. To wit: There were more than a fair share of her signature disheveled dresses, high-waisted pants and bias-cut assembled evening confections. What was new? In her program notes, Westwood said one of her working ideas was imagining what would have happened if "Marilyn Monroe had married an English lord with a country estate and had a kinky relationship." Judging from Westwood's pink gym shorts paired with a bustier, short sequined dress and funny use of cowboy-like fringe, it probably would have been a marriage that ended in divorce.

Isabel Marant: Isabel Marant delivered a straight shot of her signature street mix: legions of jackets — tailored and cargo types — for the most part shown with ethnic prints and slouchy, tapered drawstring drawers. The dusty military palette combined with abstract camouflage tops, bottoms and baby-doll dresses and Palestinian-print djellabas and scarves could be interpreted as political posturing — a notion Marant dismissed preshow. She's just feeling the desert legionnaire thing right now. Considering the schoolish jackets and scarves — two items Marant has down to a science — her stylishly nonchalant lineup felt on point, if at times a little washed out due to the legion of army green and khaki pairings.Commuun: Hitting the catwalk for the first time is often a sign that a brand is ready to take its vision to another level. And sure enough, Commuun, the emerging eco-oriented French brand designed by Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate, delivered a collection that is sure to woo a wider clientele. The brand's minimalist airs are still intact, but more sophisticated forms have emerged for spring via constructed cocoon-inspired dresses and fluid silhouettes honed from combinations of draped chiffon and ultralight jerseys.

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