A stunning incarnation of power-woman drama and masses of giant men's wear looks were present and accounted for as the Paris collections got under way.
Viktor & Rolf: Is the lady passé, fashionably speaking? Not if she speaks the language of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who on Monday showed a magnificent fall collection that riffed on the haute propriety of the Fifties.
The designers dressed their runway in shirred fabric at the sides, setting the stage for their girls to model in that old-fashioned, polished posey way, each a vision of perfection — perfect coiffeur, perfect fishnet hose, perfect shoes, the heels carved like precision-cut crystal into a grid of tiny pyramids.
A bold, snooty runway flourish punctuated this grandly formal attitude: Various parts of the clothes — cuffs, a hem, an entire party frock — were dipped into liquid silver and hardened for preservation's sake, as one might do with baby's first shoe. "Fashion is the biggest thing in our lives," Horsting said. "We wanted to heirloom it, make it timeless." Yet rather than descend into silvery shtick, the collection dripped with high chic and a bit of subversion in its icy, power-woman undercurrent. To that end, the models wore stiff grid masks with an armor vibe — part fencer, part Hannibal Lector — while voguing to a soundtrack that repeated over and over, "You can't reach me; you can't hurt me; I can suck you dry." And in line with the season's austerity, Snoeren and Horsting delivered the very dressed-up attitude with near-Calvinist restraint — and a whole lot of prim white cuffs.
The pair divided the show into sections of good old classics — little black dresses, trenchcoats, suits, white shirts (worn with big black party skirts), transforming each into an up-close wonder of cut and detail. One trench flaunted a spill of ruffled edging down the front; another had sleeves pouffed into bubbles cinched with tiny belts. Suits went both voluminous and lean, with dark sequined blouses. The dresses ranged from near-New Look construction to an off-the-shoulder sack dress.
The designers bothered little with evening, showing only a few ultradramatic, full-skirted bustier dresses, the final one in rock-solid silver worn by their bride — a shining finale to a sterling collection.Yohji Yamamoto: Near the end of Yohji Yamamoto's show on Sunday night, the song "Blue Moon" came on the soundtrack. You know, "You saw me standing alone, without a dream in my heart, without a love of my own." Interesting choice of ditties, because these were hardly get-a-guy clothes — unless the guy's a razor-blade supplier.
In a season in which Yohji influences have surfaced at no-less-exalted places than Prada, Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld, this could have been Yamamoto's season. But rather than take the dark aesthetic he helped to invent to a new place — one with currency — he again insisted on a dour redux of ponderous men's wear concepts that he has long perfected and everyone else long ago relegated to a brilliant part of fashion history. Huge foppish pantsuits with three sleeves and 50-inch waists came out in relentless repetition, would-be skirts somehow connected into pants, multiple layers multiplied the enormous volumes and everything was dark, dark, dark — save for the momentary spark (relatively) of distressed teal denim and some Edie Beale silliness with layered floppy hats — worn one over the other.
That Yamamoto is a genius at seemingly impossible construction is a given. But what once inspired awe now plays as masterfully crafted trickery not mitigated by the fact that, come fall, there will be some desirable tailored pieces on the racks. If it's true that the runway is about concept and vision at least as much as it is about store-destined merch, then it's essential for fashion's greatest talents, among whom Yamamoto is high on the list, to use it to expand their vision — and ours.
Rick Owens: The futuristic, industrial world of Rick Owens is an intriguing place to visit. (How long one wishes to stay depends on one's proclivities.) In recent seasons, he has incrementally cleaned up his rough-edged look, giving it more polish and poise, while still staying true to his mantra of freaky chic by adding more couture-like flourishes to his silhouettes. He took another welcome step in that direction for fall. Jackets topped the Los Angeles expat's effort — and there was some interesting stuff on parade, including a glittering gold number with dangling flaps that opened the varying array of gathered, layered, and spliced together confections in fur, leather or knit. Owens paired these with high-waisted, cropped black pants and aggressive platform stilettos. He then turned softer with worn-in black wool dresses cut on the bias. Metallic fabrics in silver and gold added a cool Space-Age vibe. The apocalyptic look reached a crescendo when out stormed fluffy black parka jackets that looked like blown-up inflatable safety rafts. Weird? Sure, but certainly original — just the fare Owens' Gothed-out fans have come to expect and love.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye