NEW YORK — You could call it a hairy business: Lancôme is out to shift the shopping patterns of consumers buying high-priced hair care with its new collection, Hair Sensation, set to hit U.S. department store counters in March. ...
NEW YORK — You could call it a hairy business: Lancôme is out to shift the shopping patterns of consumers buying high-priced hair care with its new collection, Hair Sensation, set to hit U.S. department store counters in March.
Lancôme is entering what it hopes will be a profitable sector, which as yet is uncrowded in this channel of distribution in the U.S. A few other upscale brands peddle shampoo in department and specialty stores —?among them, Clinique, Origins, Frédéric Fekkai and Philip B. —?but the only ones with major department store muscle currently are Clinique, Origins and now Lancôme. Most shoppers buying high-priced hair care in the U.S. purchase it at salons, a pattern that Lancôme hopes to alter, said Dalia Chammas, senior vice president and general manager of Lancôme USA.
"Hair care is a $5 billion dollar business in the U.S.," added Maeve Coburn, senior vice president of marketing for Lancôme USA. This number includes shampoo, conditioner and styling products, but not hair color. "It’s a massive market, and only a tiny percentage is done at department stores. Consumers are spending it in other channels of distribution, and we felt we had a unique opportunity to build business in that area."
Coburn noted that there were other reasons as well: "Women have a real emotional attachment to their hair," she said. "As a beauty company, we need to give the consumer tools to address her needs in this area. As well, as a company, we have at our disposal access to the greatest hair care and skin care research laboratories in the world. We already have consumers coming to the department store for skin care and makeup — she’s in a beauty frame of mind when she comes to the counter. Why not sell her hair care as well?"
Lancôme also had plenty of resources to draw from when formulating its collection: in addition to funding research laboratories all over the globe, its parent company L’Oréal also owns several salon hair care companies, including Matrix, Redken and the recently acquired Artec.
The initial lineup consists of 12 stockkeeping units spread across four ranges: one each for flat/fine hair, color-treated hair, dry/damaged hair, and frequent use/normal hair. Each has white packaging with a color-coded band for immediate recognition: flat/fine is pale green; color-treated is coral; dry/damaged is gold, and frequent use/normal is pale blue.Five of the sku’s fall in the dry/damaged category: a 6.7-oz. Extra Rich Conditioning Mask, $22; a 1.69-oz. Damaged Tips Nutri-Serum, $22; a 3.3-oz. Smooth and Shine Treatment, $18; a 6.7-oz. Nourishing Daily Conditioner, $1, and a 8.4-oz Nourishing Treatment Shampoo, $16. Flat/fine hair has three sku’s: a 3.3-oz. Extra Body Non Rinse Conditioner, $17; a 5-oz. Extra Volume Mousse, $18, and a 8.4-oz. Volumizing Gel Shampoo, $16. Color-treated has two sku’s: a 6.7-oz. Extra Radiance Repairing Conditioner, $17, and a 8.4-oz. Reviving Treatment Shampoo, $16. Frequent use/normal also has two sku’s: a 6.7-oz. Express Shine Conditioner, $17, and a 8.4-oz. Vitality Gel Shampoo, $16.
Additional sku’s are in development, in collaboration with Lancôme editorial stylist Barnabe, who notes it is important to him to do "beauty products for hair." He said his four favorites in the current line are the Express Shine Conditioner, the Extra Rich Conditioning Mask, the Extra Volume Mousse and the Reviving Treatment Shampoo.
Each collection, noted Frederic Cervantes, assistant vice president of research and development for hair, L’Oréal USA, includes proprietary ingredients, including a mix of proprietary polymers. Added William Colli, director of marketing for sun, body and hair for Lancôme USA: "The technology of each of the collections is designed to work in collaboration with all other products in that category, which is why we suggest that they be used together."
"Education will be crucial to the success of this range, so we are putting a lot of effort behind our training, both for beauty advisers and for consumers," said Toria Garrett, vice president of fragrance, sun, body and hair marketing for Lancôme. The brand will begin beauty adviser educational training in January, she noted, and at the collection’s launch in March, will hand out more than 1 million brochures detailing the collection. As well, sampling is intended to be a key part of the campaign: more than 2.5 million samples, including packettes and deluxe samples, are planned. As well, a counter merchandising tester unit is planned for all doors, with about 500 doors also getting a freestanding, open-sell display unit on wheels. Open-sell walls are also planned.The collection will be available in Lancôme’s full distribution of about 2,000 department and specialty store doors in March. The line entered doors in Switzerland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Italy, Spain, Sweden, Norway, Finland and select doors in Germany in October. It rolls out to France, the U.K., Germany and the rest of Europe in the first half of 2003. South America and Japan will get the line at the end of 2003 or beginning of 2004.
While none of the executives would comment on projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated that Lancôme would do about $30 million at retail in the U.S. in the collection’s first year on counter. Sources also estimated that the brand would spend about $7 million on advertising and promotion.
Teaser ads for the collection will break in national fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines in February, with launch ads slated for April books.
While Lancôme is hoping that hair care will eventually be a big business for the brand, no one is expecting it to happen overnight. "It takes time to change established shopping patterns," conceded Coburn, who said she thought it would take "at least a year" to change mind-sets. Added Garrett: "It’s definitely a long-term, ongoing project."
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye