Lanvin: Apparently spring's space odyssey left Alber Elbaz a little homesick. Thus, he brought Lanvin back down to earth for fall with a stunning collection that was all about controlled chic. His return to a more familiar frame of mind came with a few archival techniques — mainly mined from Madame Lanvin's languid geometry of the Thirties — that were most obvious in strong shoulders achieved by subtle folds that released into full bloused sleeves that tapered toward the wrist. But this was far from a period piece. In fact, rather than abandon last season's futuristic look entirely, Elbaz played to its softer side, pairing the edgy — exposed zippers and linear, beaded darts — with easy fabrics like washed silk in powerful fuchsia and violet, all sent out on models wigged out in black blunt-cut bobs. But as he said in a pre-show interview, "It's not yesterday, not tomorrow; it's about being relevant today."
Indeed, these clothes were modern marvels of construction, many crafted out of a single piece of fabric. That said, while they looked effortless, they were by no means simple. Once Elbaz created the foundation silhouette, he put the excess material to thoughtful use in deftly executed details, which, in the hands of a lesser designer, could have turned sloppy. Silk sheaths spilled into sweeping, painterly collars. Dresses were trussed into ruffles that scalloped down the spine, and pencil skirts were ruched and pouffed over the rear. And save for a belt, dart or zipper, garments were largely unadorned. When Elbaz chose to decorate, he did so with restraint, tracing lines sparingly studded with square and circular gems. In the end, Elbaz's message was a pitch-perfect blend of intrigue and pragmatism.
Miu Miu: Now here's a trend for you: Pantyhose hiked up high over a girl's tucked-in top, boldly visible under a hip-riding skirt. (Whatever happened to just flaunting one's Calvins?) This was only one of the curious statements Miuccia Prada put forth in her Miu Miu collection, which continued the revisited-classics motif the designer began back in Milan with her signature line.
But rather than mine Prada's mannish eco-intellectualism, here she strummed a more feminine chord in Fifties-esque silhouettes. "I maintained my history: twin sets and pleated skirts," Prada said after the show. And, indeed, she played with those ladylike basics in every which way: cut in sturdy wools, quilty metallics, rubbery leathers and nylon tweeds in colors ranging from camel neutrals to sorbet hues to flashes of red and neon-highlighter pink. Those forward-looking fabrics, interestingly enough, developed out of the atelier's research in textile innovations from that sock-hop era.Miu Miu's other big news: exaggerated volume, further amped up by stiff-as-cardboard fabrics. Thus, blazers and coats came with pronounced, rounded hips, while giant flared skirts took on almost clownish proportions. The end result often looked rather frumpy — and begged the question of whether any of those front-row PYTs (Charlotte Casiraghi, Claire Danes, et al.) would want to audition those shapes. As for those ill-fitting, dimpled bra cups on the fit-and-flare bustier frocks, they're enough to send any girl heading straight for the tissue box. But perhaps that's why Prada tempered the volume with a series of less stiff, come-hither peekaboo options, from organza A-line skirts to gentle see-through sweaters, as well as sweetly ruffled and gem-encrusted spectator pumps. While still exuding a certain lofty Prada quirkiness, these pieces are bound to have more street legs than those gargantuan molded separates.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)