Lanvin: Apparently spring's space odyssey left Alber Elbaz a little homesick. Thus, he brought Lanvin back down to earth for fall with a stunning collection that was all about controlled chic. His return to a more familiar frame of mind came with a few archival techniques — mainly mined from Madame Lanvin's languid geometry of the Thirties — that were most obvious in strong shoulders achieved by subtle folds that released into full bloused sleeves that tapered toward the wrist. But this was far from a period piece. In fact, rather than abandon last season's futuristic look entirely, Elbaz played to its softer side, pairing the edgy — exposed zippers and linear, beaded darts — with easy fabrics like washed silk in powerful fuchsia and violet, all sent out on models wigged out in black blunt-cut bobs. But as he said in a pre-show interview, "It's not yesterday, not tomorrow; it's about being relevant today."
Indeed, these clothes were modern marvels of construction, many crafted out of a single piece of fabric. That said, while they looked effortless, they were by no means simple. Once Elbaz created the foundation silhouette, he put the excess material to thoughtful use in deftly executed details, which, in the hands of a lesser designer, could have turned sloppy. Silk sheaths spilled into sweeping, painterly collars. Dresses were trussed into ruffles that scalloped down the spine, and pencil skirts were ruched and pouffed over the rear. And save for a belt, dart or zipper, garments were largely unadorned. When Elbaz chose to decorate, he did so with restraint, tracing lines sparingly studded with square and circular gems. In the end, Elbaz's message was a pitch-perfect blend of intrigue and pragmatism.
Miu Miu: Now here's a trend for you: Pantyhose hiked up high over a girl's tucked-in top, boldly visible under a hip-riding skirt. (Whatever happened to just flaunting one's Calvins?) This was only one of the curious statements Miuccia Prada put forth in her Miu Miu collection, which continued the revisited-classics motif the designer began back in Milan with her signature line.
But rather than mine Prada's mannish eco-intellectualism, here she strummed a more feminine chord in Fifties-esque silhouettes. "I maintained my history: twin sets and pleated skirts," Prada said after the show. And, indeed, she played with those ladylike basics in every which way: cut in sturdy wools, quilty metallics, rubbery leathers and nylon tweeds in colors ranging from camel neutrals to sorbet hues to flashes of red and neon-highlighter pink. Those forward-looking fabrics, interestingly enough, developed out of the atelier's research in textile innovations from that sock-hop era.Miu Miu's other big news: exaggerated volume, further amped up by stiff-as-cardboard fabrics. Thus, blazers and coats came with pronounced, rounded hips, while giant flared skirts took on almost clownish proportions. The end result often looked rather frumpy — and begged the question of whether any of those front-row PYTs (Charlotte Casiraghi, Claire Danes, et al.) would want to audition those shapes. As for those ill-fitting, dimpled bra cups on the fit-and-flare bustier frocks, they're enough to send any girl heading straight for the tissue box. But perhaps that's why Prada tempered the volume with a series of less stiff, come-hither peekaboo options, from organza A-line skirts to gentle see-through sweaters, as well as sweetly ruffled and gem-encrusted spectator pumps. While still exuding a certain lofty Prada quirkiness, these pieces are bound to have more street legs than those gargantuan molded separates.
A grooming moment between @tanfrance and @antoni last night at the The LGBT Community Center Trailblazer Awards honoring Anna Wintour, Ricky Martin and more. See more photos at WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“It was a very surreal feeling. It wasn’t like we were in the studio together coming up with it — it’s more like he discovered it and loved it. I didn’t let myself get my hopes up, but then it happened it was very exciting,” said singer-songwriter @nombe on discovering that @pharrell would be using his song, “Cant Catch Me” on his HBO documentary series “Outpost.” The German-born singer — named Noah MacBeth — talked to WWD about feminism, using art as a platform for political expression and personal style. Read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
This season, denim is going west – in influence. Brands like @fathersdaughterla (pictured here), @tommyhilfiger Jeans, @levis and more are opting for raw, top-stitching styles. (Styled by @thealexbadia; 📷: @ryanplett)
20-year-old British singer @jorjasmith_ made her debut at Coachella last weekend. We caught up with her and talked about her love for Amy Winehouse, working with Kendrick Lamar on the “Black Panther” album and her fashion philosophy. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @katiedaisyla)
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)