PARIS - With a unisex collection inspired by film noir characters all wearing giant wigs, Latvian duo Marite Mastina and Rolands Peterkops swept two of the main prizes at the 24th International Festival of Fashion and Photography, held in Hyères in the south of France over the weekend.
The jury, presided by Belgian designer Kris Van Assche, alongside film director Zoe Cassavetes and photographer Nan Goldin, picked the two designers from among nine other competitors during the three-day event, which in the past has catapulted such designers including Viktor & Rolf on to the international stage.
Mastina and Peterkops, who both graduated from the Latvian Academy of Arts going on to work under the label Mareunrols, won the top L’Oréal Professionnel-sponsored prize of 15,000 euros, or $19,870, which includes using L’Oréal’s Rue Royale Academy for a runway show. They also won the French fashion chain 1.2.3.’s prize of 15,000 euros, or $19,870, together with the opportunity to design a collection to be produced and sold at the retailer.
Norway’s Harald Lunde Helgesen and Belgium’s Simon-Pierre Toussaint, both men’s wear designers, will split the festival’s new 15,000 euros, or $19,870, Swarovski-sponsored prize, Crystallized. Toussaint, a graduate of Antwerps’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, also won the public vote with his baroque collection.
All 11 competitors will have the chance to create their own fabric free of charge, thanks to Italian manufacturer Punto Seta, while all can also pick Swarovski crystals to use in their next collections.
The main prize for photography went to Switzerland’s Linus Bill.
As well as backing emerging talent, the festival showcased work by such industry veterans as Steven Meisel, who displayed 20 years of his cover shoots for Italian Vogue and Peter Knapp, who was art director at Elle in the Sixties.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast