NEW YORK — Estée Lauder is eyeing growth in its skin care business this fall by building on three solid franchises.
This story first appeared in the August 1, 2003 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
In October, the brand will unleash new eye creams in both its Re-Nutriv and DayWear franchises and a mask in its Resilience line. The two eye creams are intended for different doors — Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lifting Eye Creme will be released in a targeted lineup of about 125 specialty store doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. DayWear Plus Multi-Protection Anti-oxidant Eye Creme SPF 15, by contrast, will be available in the brand’s full complement of 2,200 department and specialty store doors. A third franchise extension, Resilience Lift Extra Firming Revitalizing Mask, also will launch in Lauder’s full distribution.
“It made perfect sense to take franchises that had already proven to be winners and add to them,” said Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America, for Estée Lauder. “For both Re-Nutriv and DayWear, we’ve had many requests for an eye cream, and a new mask was a perfect addition to the Resilience line.”
According to Daniel Maes, vice president of research and development worldwide for Estée Lauder, the upscale Re-Nutriv eye cream includes more than 55 ingredients. Key among them: a corrective optic technology containing white platinum colors and South Sea pearl extract which is intended to brighten the eye area; bio-available water, which is combined with hyaluronic acid to plump and lift the eye area; eyebright flower extract combined with algae extract to minimize irritation, and Brazilian coffee seed extract to help strengthen the skin.
The product retails for $100 for 0.5 oz. For those craving even more luxury, the brand will also release a limited-edition size of its Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lifting Creme, which will retail for $1,000 for 8.4 oz.
The DayWear eye creme combines antioxidants, SPF protection and advanced moisturizers and is intended for broader distribution than its high-end sister. The antioxidants —which include white tea, South African red tea, grapeseed, rice bran, rosemary and resveratrol — are also found in the existing DayWear products, but are formulated to be used around the eye area, noted Marjorie Lau, vice president of global skin care marketing for Estée Lauder.
The DayWear eye cream also includes hyaluronic acid and a proprietary lipid blend to enhance hydration around the eye, noted Maes. As well, the product includes microencapsulated titanium, a UVA/UVB sunscreen safe for use around the eyes. The DayWear eye cream retails for $35 for 0.5 oz.
Resilience Lift Extra-Firming Revitalizing Mask is intended to moisturize and firm skin, noted Maes. Its key ingredients include a biopolymer blend found in the protein of sweet almonds, which is said to smooth and tighten skin; soybean protein, vitamin C and amadorine, said to help boost collagen, and colloidal water and hyaluronic acid, designed to intensively moisturize skin. As well, the product contains a proprietary lipid complex which includes soybean, barley and sandalwood, and a yeast extract to help diminish the appearance of dark spots. It retails for $38.50 for 2.5 oz.
None of the executives would discuss sales projections or advertising figures for any of the products. However, industry sources estimated that the DayWear franchise and Re-Nutriv franchises would each generate about $30 million at retail in the U.S. in the 12 months after the new products launch. DayWear Plus Eye is expected to account for 20 percent of the total franchise’s business in that time, while Re-Nutriv Ultimate Eye is expected to do about 5 percent of the total franchise’s business in that time. Sources also estimated that the Resilience franchise would generate about $60 million at retail in the next 12 months, with the mask accounting for about 6 percent of that figure. Advertising and promotional budgets for the year are estimated by industry sources at $2 million for the DayWear franchise, $1 million for the ReNutriv franchise and $2.5 million for the Resilience franchise.