WWD.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/lauder-pumps-up-resilience-line-755046/

NEW YORK — Estée Lauder is aiming to add a little more bounce to the mature-skin care category this fall.

This story first appeared in the August 2, 2002 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

With Resilience Lift OverNight Face and Throat Creme — an addition to its top-selling Resilience line — the brand is out to not only further address the needs of 40-plus women, but also to build on one of the Lauder brand’s strongest skin care franchises, noted Janet Cook, senior vice president and general manager of Estée Lauder North America.

“Resilience is our number one anti-aging line, and this product is a great way to build on what has proven to be an incredibly successful franchise,” said Cook.

While Cook wouldn’t quantify that success with numbers, sources say that the total Resilience Lift franchise does upward of $70 million at retail annually.

“One of our key strategies going forward is to build killer franchises on major new technology,” added Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global marketing for Estée Lauder. “This product is well aligned with that goal. It’s part of a refocusing on the franchise, and we’re looking for an overall global growth of 25 percent for this franchise in the next year.”

Resilience Elastin Refirming Lotion and Creme — the initial products in the Resilience lineup — were launched in 1994, although neither dealt specifically with hormonal aging, now a key selling point of the franchise. In 1998, Resilience Lift Face and Throat Creme, one of the first products to address the challenges of hormonal aging, launched. The franchise was expanded in 2000 with Resilience Lift Eye Creme and in 2002 with Resilience Lift Body Lotion. The decision to add a nighttime companion to the face and throat day creme sprung from recent research in the category, said Daniel Maes, vice president of research and development for Estée Lauder Worldwide.

“We studied the effects of circadian rhythms on the skin cells,” noted Maes. “We discovered that aging is a three-step process: chronological, environmental and hormonal.” Maes added that declining estrogen in women between 45 and 60 in particular contributes to glycolization, the cross-linking of collagen which results in sagging skin. The Resilience products, he said, are designed to help prevent the glycolization process, among other benefits.

Also, added Maes, “in our research, we discovered that biorhythms are different at night, and that cells use energy during the day to protect themselves. The cells then repair themselves at night. Our goal was to maximize that repair time, as well as protect the skin during the day with a slow-release complex of antioxidants.”

Key ingredients in the newest product include the proprietary OverNight Revival Complex, a combination of soybean protein, yeast and white birch extract, designed to correct existing collagen damage and boost collagen production; the proprietary Barrier Strengthening Complex, a blend of ceramides, sandalwood, barley extract, sphingosine, and Muru Muru butter, designed to improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture over time, explained Maes.

Other ingredients include hyaluronic acid, said to seal moisture in at the skin’s surface; encapsulated antioxidants, including vitamins C and E, which are slowly released over time; and a blend of essential oils intended to be calming, added Marjorie Lau, vice president, global skin care marketing for Estée Lauder.

“In their initial days, night creams were simply heavier versions of daytime moisturizers,” noted Anne Carullo, senior vice president of global product innovation for the Estée Lauder Cos. “These days, night creams are far more technologically advanced. We felt strongly about providing the consumer with a product that would provide strong benefits but would also be a pleasure to use —?with a great texture and a great smell.”

Resilience Lift OverNight will be available in Lauder’s full distribution of 2,000 department and specialty stores in the U.S. and on esteelauder.com, said Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America, for Estée Lauder. It will retail for $70 for a 1.7 oz. jar. While none of the team would comment on projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated that it could do close to $30 million at retail in its first year on-counter in the U.S.

National advertising, slated to break in a lineup of October fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, Town and Country and More, will feature longtime Lauder model Karen Graham. A radio campaign as well as a sampling campaign intended to distribute more than two million samples of the new product and the existing Resilience Lift day cream are also planned. While none of the executives would comment on the advertising and promotional budget, sources estimated it at about $6 million.