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So far this season, the most unfettered vision in Berlin came from one of the newest sources. Recent Designer for Tomorrow winner Leandro Cano wowed the crowd with his avant-garde looks that embraced and inflated the female form with puffs and padding. Some outfits could be heard before they were seen — tinkling porcelain bones and blooms dangled from shoulders, hips and shins, providing an ornate touch for beautifully crafted leather pants, jackets and dresses.
The Spanish designer’s other-worldly vision was primarily white and off-white with some pieces in wine shades and a foray into Renaissance trellis prints. Clear vinyl was bedecked with floral appliqués cut from the same prints, or basket-woven around pillows of rabbit fur to create a caplet that rivaled angel’s wings.
The fantastical was frequent, but wearable looks were also there. One sophisticated standout was a leather long-sleeve dress with attached cape. It’s worth watching to see what Cano will do next, and who will back him.