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Fans of Lena Hoschek’s retro-inspired dirndl pin-up chic won’t be disappointed by her spring 2016 collection, yet some of her more relaxed looks may end up broadening her client base. Wiggle dresses in colored lace and fit-and-flare styles in peasant-print or cotton toile were pretty but expected.

The dreamier moments in the Austrian designer’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin show came courtesy of soft bandana-print silks in red and blue tied into sarongs or one-shouldered dresses, and secret garden-ready long shirt dresses and smocks patterned with gentle blooms. A black broderie anglaise trench felt fresh and primed to walk off the runway, despite the baking Berlin sun, and the final look, a flowing wedding gown with a blouson waist, hinted that the corsetry queen has loosened up a bit.

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