NEW YORK -- "Come on ladies, feel the burn!" The year was 1982 and America was jumping on the fitness bandwagon thanks to role models like Jane Fonda, Jennifer Beals in "Flashdance" and Olivia Newton-John in the video for her song "Physical." Though the term "aerobics" was coined back in 1968 by Air Force physician Dr. Kenneth Cooper in his eponymous book, the concept of aerobic dance didn't come along until the early Eighties, and for many, it was a welcome change from the jogging-obsessed Seventies. Naturally, this new wave of physical activity called for something beyond the standard-issue gray fleece sweatsuit or Danskin nylon leotard. Sporting goods companies such as Nike introduced lightweight nylon tanks and shorts for all the runners out there, but these looks were more about function than fashion. Was it even possible to combine the two?
Norma Kamali gave it a try when she introduced a 35-piece collection of snappy sportswear made entirely from gray sweatshirt fleece in 1980. In fact, when the line debuted, WWD put the look on page one, dubbing it "Locker Room Chic." While the clothes weren't really meant for working out, the sporty look was a hit with customers, and the concept won Kamali a Coty Award in 1981.
Though Kamali often incorporated fitness wear into her collections -- remember her NYCG (New York City Girl) pieces during the late Seventies? -- it wasn't until 1993 that she launched a bona fide activewear group for wholesale -- her OMO Gym line. "In the late Seventies, the activewear market really didn't exist but there was a growing need for it as a result of the disco trend," Kamali says. "Today it is a staple department that transcends age limits and fashion influences."
As for Jane Fonda, besides becoming America's fitness guru, she also proved to be a savvy business woman. Her corporation, Workout, Inc., whose profits helped fund then-husband Tom Hayden's "Campaign for Economic Democracy," began with workout studios, books, tapes and videos. Later on, she launched a line of fitness wear, following in the footsteps of her exercise teacher Gilda Marx, who had the largest exercise apparel company in the U.S. in 1983. Designed by Theoni Aldrege, a costumer for Broadway musicals, Fonda's workout wear was produced by the "politically correct" Capri Beachwear Corp. But, even though people couldn't get enough of her exercise videos, the workout wear was too little too late, and fell short of expectations.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"