Levi's on Display With New York Fashion Week creeping closer, Bryant Park isn't the only Gotham locale getting a facelift for the nine-day designer showcase. Selvedge, the Levi Strauss & Co.-owned store in Manhattan's NoLIta neighborhood, next week plans to unveil a window display designed by the Dutch firm Droog Design. The boutique, part of Levi's efforts to build underground buzz for its brand, opened its doors in October with virtually no publicity. The 750-square-foot shop, which carries only the Levi's Red and Levi's Vintage clothing lines and has no Levi's signs on its outside, is part of a global network of Levi's "icon" stores which carry only premium Levi's products. Selvedge, the only Icon shop in the U.S., features an eclectic decor, including 1940s sonar equipment and a 1950s 8mm film projector that plays vintage movies on one of the store's walls. Over the past year, the company has quietly unveiled a handful of other icon shops around the world, including Cinch in London, Nim in Paris, Buttenheim in Berlin, B-Fly in Milan and, early this year, Zinc in Barcelona. Levi's officials said the new window display would be in keeping with Selvedge's non-traditional product presentation and decor. A layer of transparent film -- half red, half green -- is to be affixed to the window of the store. A logo with an "A," signifying anarchy, is printed on the 3-D film. Merchandise from the Levi's Red and Levi's Vintage Clothing spring collections will be hung from the ceiling directly behind the film. Behind the clothing will be a three-dimensional photo -- viewed properly only through the red and green film -- featuring two contrasting images: disciplined soldiers and unruly concert-goers. The contrasting images speak to the theme of the Levi's Red spring collection, "Chaos/Order," said Megan Shenon, Levi's Red and Levi's Vintage Clothing senior merchandiser. Shenon said the display will remain at Selvedge for about two weeks, before heading to San Francisco, where it will be installed at the Stockton Street location of jeans specialty store Rolo. "The challenge was what can we do to showcase this product in a really innovative way that answers the Levi's Red mission," she said. "The whole mission of Levi's Red is to pioneer new icons for our brand, to experiment, to push the envelope." Shenon added that the company's objective is to portray a fashion-forward image to its customers. "The goal really isn't about increasing sales, although that's an added bonus," she said. "The goal is to look at fashion in a whole different way." The alliance between Droog and Levi's Red began last year when a similar window display was shown at Colette in Paris and Jones in London. Like in New York, the unveiling of the window displays at the two stores coincided with fall fashion weeks in those cities. Droog Design's other projects include the recently opened Mandarina Duck shop in Paris and The New York Times' millennium capsule. A "Chaos/Order"-themed window display will also be installed at Collette and Jones later this year during fashion week there.Novel Jumps on Parity It didn't quite attract the attention some of the other beneficiaries of the generous final hours of the Clinton administration did, but Mauritius -- and Novel Denim Holdings Ltd., which manufactures jeans there -- got a going-away present from the former President as well. According to sources, in her final hours in office, former U.S. trade representative Charlene Barshefsky officially granted trade parity for the island nation's apparel industry, under the same law which granted parity to the nations of the Caribbean Basin last year. That nation and Kenya were the first sub-Saharan nations to qualify because they already have a customs system in place due to their established apparel and textile industries. Novel, which is based in Hong Kong but has plants in Mauritius, as well as South Africa and Madagascar, wasted no time in singing the advantages of duty-free trade. "This is a very important development for the company," said president and chief executive officer K.C. Chao, in a statement. "We expect this enormous cost savings to be a catalyst for both increased demand for our products as well as improved margins." The extension of trade parity, which came in the form of a letter to the Mauritian government, means that apparel made in Mauritius of U.S. or locally produced fabric can enter the U.S. without paying duties. According to Chao, duties on the company's jeans had run at about 17 percent. He added that in the quarter ended Sept. 30, 46 percent of the company's sales were to the U.S.
Unionbay President: Growth Ahead Unionbay's junior division has a new president and a new focus on fashion. "We think we can grow the business by mid-double digits, probably between 10 and 15 percent," said Barry Bates, who assumed his new position at the start of the year, after half a decade as senior vice president of the juniors and girls divisions. "There's weakness obviously with designer-brand labels in the junior area and there are dollars available on the table." Bates said the company, a division of Seattle Pacific Industries, will seek to expand its customer base by adding about 20 percent more fashion items to the junior line. "We're turning up the heat on the fashion end of the business," he said. "We have the key-item customer business already -- that's the core of our $150 million business." Bates said the division's fashion items "will be everything from studs to rivets to whatever the new trend is." Last year, Bates said, the junior division's business grew by high-single digits, due largely in part to its move "from a broader collection resource in the upper moderate branding area to much more focused on key items." Union Bay's juniors division also signed several licensing deals last year, for product lines, including socks, sleepwear, shoes and innerwear. Bates said the licensing agreements "will enhance our brand and our image." Bates said one of the most important business decisions the junior division made last year was to "refocus on denim," by upping its fashion offerings. "We have always been a very strong denim brand and I think because our non-denim had been selling so well the last two or three years, we had kind of lost our focus," he said. "We had a broad offering of both key items and also a lot of fashion in the line, which was sensational at retail."Jeans From Space Yet another junior sportswear company is getting ready to jump into the increasingly crowded jeans market. Los Angeles-based Space Girlz plans to launch in the fall a junior denim collection, consisting of low-rise and flared jeans, denim skirts and jackets. The company said the collection, which will be shown at the WWDMagic show in Las Vegas this month, will retail from $24 to $69. Space Girlz produces fashion bottoms, such as twills and stretch garments. Owner Richard Skolnik said in a statement, "The collection we are introducing has a strong representation of novelty and basic styling. It's a natural extension of the sportswear collection."
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)