At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz continued his fascination with pretty dressing. For pre-spring, that meant ethereal layers of chiffon fashioned into a man's jacket with an oversize shirtdress or a chiffon slipdress that, with a few tugs, could morph into a long evening dress. In addition to his new, item-driven 22 Faubourg lineup, he has added Blanche, a group of nontraditional bridal looks. Pre-spring also has arrived chez John Galliano, where the house's signature shapely jackets and bias-cut gowns come sweetened with sugary hues and summery prints. Details count: fanned origami pleats or cat's-cradle latticework ties. And at Emilio Pucci, Matthew Williamson's cruise collection was inspired by the fresh colors of nature; bold optic and botanical effects combine in the prints of the season.

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