LONDON — Growing up isn’t hard to do — just ask London’s designers, who traded their Eighties shapes, in-your-face colors, and over-the-top styling for quieter, more sophisticated looks with a Twenties vibe this season. The spring shows were more polished, too: shorter and better organized. “Everyone has to grow up sometime. It’s just a question of trying to get better and develop,” said Pablo Flack, who, with Hazel Robinson, designs House of Jazz.

Boudicca: It’s been the best of times and the worst of times for Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby, the designers behind the Boudicca label. In June, the duo won a coveted, seven-year sponsorship from American Express, but later in the summer, a fire broke out in their East London studio. They also lost their much-loved Algerian tailor, who decided to move back to North Africa. But at least it all ended well: The all black-and-white spring collection they showed was pure magic, with shapely, curve-hugging skirts, sharply tailored jackets and sensuous, high-waisted black dresses with fluted sleeves. “We were just happy to be able to stage the show,” said Broach. “Working with American Express is like having a big brother hold us up. We’re still such a fragile business.”

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