Look on the Bright Side – Alberta Ferretti, Marni, La Perla and Pollini
Ultra-colorful looks ruled at Alberta Ferretti…Consuelo Castiglione’s Marni collection had an upbeat attitude…Alessandro Dell’Acqua was inspired by vintage corsetry for La Perla…and Rifat Ozbek made a promising comeback...
Ultra-colorful looks ruled at Alberta Ferretti…Consuelo Castiglione’s Marni collection had an upbeat attitude…Alessandro Dell’Acqua was inspired by vintage corsetry for La Perla…and Rifat Ozbek made a promising comeback at Pollini.
Alberta Ferretti: It’s not something that comes naturally to every designer, but Alberta Ferretti has deep reserves of color confidence. For spring, her choices were downright fearless — rich poppy red, dusty lavender and deep teal. Zing! She paired a ruby red silk top with a stiff violet skirt. She sent out a yolk yellow party dress you could spot from two blocks away. Then, in a geometric frenzy, Ferretti spliced together an intricate dress from pieces in every hue she could lay her hands on.
Eccentric touches gave it all an air of adventuresome bohemianism, with embroidered details, a smattering of sparkles and droopy chiffon flowers lending the simplest looks a little oomph. And the best of the bunch looked luxe, too.
Evening is usually Ferretti’s forte. This time around, however, something got lost in translation. While some thick dresses were cut like doilies, made to peel away and reveal the contrasting underlayers, others were burdened from beneath with stiff black skirts. With all their potential beauty, these gowns begged — oh, pretty please — to be set free.
Marni: It seems as if there’s plenty to be optimistic about chez Marni, where during the past 11 years, Consuelo Castiglione has turned her vision of fashion’s pretty bohemian into a marketable and highly recognizable brand. Her tried and true Marni-isms — the retro prints, bracelet-sleeved jackets and girly party dresses — have gone global. Marni’s not a moment, it’s a mainstay. And while at one time, Castiglione tinkered with its proportions, its mood, even that unsinkable feel-good vibe, this time she sent out a quintessentially Marni collection. Why fight it?
Spring’s sunny attitude meant Fifties-style car coats, dandyish cropped pants and stiff A-line skirts that came all tied together with a jeweled ribbon belt. Castiglione mixed and matched plaids, worked the stripes, decorated her signature cropped jackets with tiny pouch pockets and threw in splashy tiki prints for good measure. When things got too cute for comfort, with stiff cotton dresses and skirts that rumpled and bulged, carefree turned to careless and lacked the polish of last season’s pitch-perfect approach. After all, a heavy burlap ballgown decorated with appliquéd birds isn’t for everyone. Fortunately, however, the rest of Castiglione’s evening looks, silk gowns in powdery iridescent colors, took things in a graceful new direction.La Perla: For spring, La Perla’s ready-to-wear designer, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, was inspired by vintage corsetry. This is no big surprise, since this house was built on lingerie. Working in a primarily pink-and-black palette, Dell’Acqua channeled Thirties glamour trimmed up with just a soupçon of Rochas. A sharp, cropped bracelet-sleeved jacket topped a black silk eyelet trumpet skirt, while a pink suit was bubblegum sweet. Black lace cutaway halter dresses and a pink-and-black bustier dress were just right for any girl coveting a little retro Hollywood style, while ivory textured jackets and embroidered skinny jeans are sure to appeal to any modern-minded gal. All-in-all, the collection was tight, save for a couple of odd white dresses covered in mini metal discs that closed the show.
Pollini: It’s nice to know that personality still counts for something. Well-wishers packed the Pollini show on Monday afternoon to support Rifat Ozbek, who designed his debut collection for the house last season after a three-year hiatus from fashion. After all, everybody loves a comeback. Ozbek, known for his global vision, seems to have picked up right about where he left off, drawing inspiration from a longitude and latitude far, far away — a Tunisian-esque, Moroccan-y, India-ish kind of place. Take exit number 10, for example, a “jungly ikat print kumari dress with chamar fringing,” according to his show notes.
Sometimes things didn’t quite click, as with pieces decorated with a tatty, meandering drizzle of sequins. But the Friends of Rifat will find plenty to like about the new collection once it’s broken down on the rack. Some of his best looks were offhand and elegant, including a small cardigan and tiered paisley cha-cha skirt combo and evening looks that paired gold sequined tops with graceful iridescent blue skirts — the kind of clothes that will keep Ozbek’s audience coming back for more.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)