NEW YORK — At the start, sportswear vendors had the wind at their backs in 2004. A wave of spring launches in the better area from brands such as Jones New York and Calvin Klein benefited from a favorable economy and from the consumer interest they generated at retail.
Shoppers grew more miserly during the second half, depressing sales and taking some of the momentum from the launches and ultimately fueling some disappointment for fashion firms. The industry is focusing on newness in the new year. For Jones Apparel Group, that means the integration of Barneys New York, while others are concentrating on another round of launches.Peter Boneparth, chief executive officer, Jones Apparel Group
Accomplishment: “Clearly, the launch of Jones New York Signature, the acquisition of Barneys New York and the revitalization of the Polo jeans business.”
Disappointment: “What’s been disappointing is the macro outlook in the back half. It’s really been a tale of two years — first half, [the industry] could do no wrong.”
Goal: “Our first goal always is to maintain our leadership position from a production and design standpoint…to continue to execute with the same level of precision as we did in 2004.”Alexander Vreeland, chief operating officer, GAV
Accomplishment: “Establishing a look, establishing a fit, establishing a quality standard, establishing a price point. Calvin [Klein] never was in these price ranges and it never had this size in women’s apparel. There’s a lot of establishing a business.” In June 2003, Phillips-Van Heusen licensed the Calvin Klein women’s sportswear to Kellwood Co., which works with GAV to produce the line.
Disappointment: “Not shipping for February. We shipped [Calvin Klein better sportswear for March and we think we missed a lot. Business was really good in February.”
Goal: “We’re launching our [Calvin Klein] casual line for spring of ’05. The successful launch of casual and the establishment of that business would be our biggest goal in ’05.”Kenneth Cole, chairman and ceo, Kenneth Cole Productions
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