A month ago, Marc Jacobs opened the spring 2007 season with a tour de force in New York. On Sunday, with the collections here nearing a close, he treated his Louis Vuitton audience to another dazzling display of something that proved all too rare in between — fashion.
His show had nothing to do with two of the season’s major trends — faux futurism and fear of taking a stand. Rather, like Alexander McQueen earlier in the weekend, Jacobs addressed the immediate future — next spring, and the question of what will entice women into the stores to buy.
The answer, rendered via a wildly complicated vision, is in fact quite simple: gorgeous clothes. Feminine, graceful clothes with a demonstrative point of view and the transformative, joyful quality that draws us to fashion in the first place. (Of course, this supposes that most of his runway gems will make it into production.)
“It’s pretty, fragile, lovely and romantic,“ Jacobs said before the show.
It was all that and more, his lineup of good and bad fairies (sans wings) working an 18th century-modern street chic hybrid with an obvious oh-so-prettied-up nod to one of his idols, Rei Kawakubo. This made for exquisite, painterly pilings of clothes usually arranged in conditions of engaging dishabille.
There were flounces, corsetry, cashmeres, Liberty prints, mattress ticking, shirts, veilings, floral sprinkles, canvas, athletic and safari elements, and silks masquerading as khakis, all twisted and warped beyond their ordinary states. These came in either the palest imaginable pastel washes or in delicately arranged layers of black. And they came with an abundance of accessories, from the delicate, decorative headbands worn in multiples to necklaces made of giant Liberty-print “pearls.”
As for the bags, the ideas just kept coming, as with the classic monogram, at once embroidered, printed and appliquéd with lace; collage bags made entirely from sections of past bags, and a clever manipulation of the LV monogram into the word “Love.”
A romantic reverie from start to finish. But lest anyone miss the versatility amidst the froth, Jacobs saved his simplest for last: a black peplumed jacket over cropped pants and a crisp white shirt.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)