MADRID — Spanish designers at Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week came up short on edge, long on déjà vu — and commerce was clearly on their minds.
Strong-shouldered minidresses — wrapped and draped — flooded the runways alongside a bevy of Eighties references, graphic pattern mixes, tactile fabrics, transparencies and loads of black, blue, some tropical brights and peach.
Marking its 25th anniversary, the Cibeles catwalk shows that ran Sept. 18 to 22 in the Madrid fairgrounds featured 56 designers, 20 more than last September, including a batch of newcomers and the return of such iconic names as Adolfo Dominguez and Roberto Verino.
Fashion week here doesn’t draw an international crowd except for 21 editors from Asia, Eastern Europe, Portugal, Mexico and the U.S. invited by the Ministry of Commerce’s Spanish Institute of Foreign Trade. With a budget of $4.7 million, organizers confirmed, Cibeles is not a heavily financed event.
Dominguez got off to a bumpy start. The music failed, models walked in eerie silence, and Dominguez came out to apologize, saying music is “the language of God” and what finally came into play was not his and decidedly not what he had in mind. It was the first time the Galician-born Dominguez had been seen on a Madrid runway in a decade.
Gwyneth Paltrow watched Dominguez’s Eighties array of halter and one-shoulder dresses, swingy skirts, shorts and separates in liquidy silk, crinkled organza and linen. Paltrow wore an inky blue bubble dress by Dominguez, matching stockings, and heels so high she towered over the diminutive designer.
Verino sent out a mix of nostalgia and contemporary styling he called “lustful chic,” which translated into short and longdresses, mainly in black with sexy back treatments, transparencies and lingerie details. Exceptions to the somber palette were two flirty wrapped lemon yellow cocktail dresses in silk crepe.
Like other major designers here, including Sybilla and Dominguez, Verino, who is supported by his own industrial infrastructure in northwestern Spain, dropped out of Cibeles after years of fast-paced, thematic shows to steer the company’s retail expansion. The brand sells through 50 stores in Spain, 14 sales points in Mexico and has additional franchise agreements in Greece and Riga.
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada referenced Cibeles’ 50th edition by sending out 50 models in her signature M&M’s candy colors of orange, yellow, turquoise, lime and red. New this season were a few denim pieces from her just-launched jeans line, easy pattern-mixed dresses and separates, stripes of every ilk and width, cork platforms with glitter hearts and color-coordinated espadrilles by Castañer, and more gimmicks — a runway-long wired caterpillar effect, for example — than usual. For the first time in several years, the flamboyant designer will not show in Milan.
Amaya Arzuaga continued with architectural cuts and signature volume plays for stylized party clothes. The local press compared her collection to “origami and the movement of butterfly wings with a snail-like geometry.” The Madrid-based designer worked with swaths of pleated tulle and organic cottons in smoke gray, white and black.
José Castro’s second Madrid presentation featured high visual impact and parrot colors such as yellow, red and green, a series of strong-shouldered short dresses with bold prints, Swarovski crystals and elastic paillette sequins, a few peplum styles and snakeskin and feathers. A graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, the 38-year-old designer is one of the few Spanish designers to have shown in Paris.
Roberto Torretta kept it simple with a grouping of draped ladylike dresses and liquidy tops with suggestive décolletés, slimline pants and an unadorned two-piece suit and trench in silver glazed linen.
Off Cibeles, Carmen March tossed a pink Champagne show in a downtown alleyway linking her showroom and three-level store. March said she wanted her 25-piece collection to be “light and airy, like a lemon sorbet.” She presented streamlined minishifts, a tailored linen pantsuit, long slinky jersey dresses and cocktail suits with slightly bunched skirts in glittery fabrics. Peach was a featured color, also sand, gray and soft celeste blue .
March called the reaction to New York Fashion Week’s collective video presentation with fellow Madrid designers Ana Locking, Juanjo Oliva and Juan Duyos, “fantastic. I was very happy with the turnout [reportedly about 250 people]. I couldn’t have expected more for a first outing.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews