Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week (formerly Pasarela Cibeles) has a new name and a new home in the fairgrounds’ Hall 14 but the runway shows, held Sept. 15 to 19, continue to attract few foreign buyers.
“More than just a name change, it’s an ambitious makeover plan and Madrid’s new face in an effort to internationalize the fashion shows here,” explained Luis Eduardo Cortés, president of the organizer’s executive committee. He said designer subsidies for the September event increased 13 percent — to 3 million euros, or $4.3 million at current exchange.
Referring to the present economic turmoil and weak consumer spending in Spain, director Cuca Solana reasoned, “In moments of crisis, if you don’t make changes, you go under.”
With triple the space and two catwalks, the event brought in 40,000 visitors — a 20 percent increase over last February’s edition, organizers said, including 60 foreign journalists, scattered local retailers, special guests and a few celebrities.
Mainly a domestic women’s ready-to-wear platform with a few key designers traditionally spiking their collections with a men’s wear range, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week featured 36 designers and a lively group of young talents who showcased their wares on and off the runway during the five-day run.
Generally speaking, fashion here marches to its own beat. The offering was eclectic — and interesting on occasion. Trends included one-piece dressing, rompers and jumpsuits; skinny tubular silhouettes under a little volume play; transparencies and asymmetrical treatments; short socks and wedges or sky-high stiletto platforms, and a pale, dusty palette of face-powder beige, putty, heavy cream, pink and black.
Some of the highlights were:
• Carmen March, whose references to Rawhide-Americana was one of the week’s snappiest collections with a barrage of pretty checks for jumpsuits, rompers, short dresses and mid-to-long swing skirts; sheer blouses; denim; ticking stripes worked into easy shirtdresses, and clean, oversize leather totes.
Cotton and linen fabrics are 100 percent organic, custom-made in Japan and assembled in her Madrid atelier, she said. In her sixth season at the Cibeles shows, 34-year-old March sells through her shop on Callejón de Puigcerdá, the Spanish capital’s hot retail alleyway.
• The front row at David Delfin was a celebrity happening with film director Pedro Almodóvar and his cronies — Rossy de Palma, Bibiana Fernandez, Miguel Bosé and Madrid’s power retailer Elena Benarroch. Less of a maverick this season (but what was with those surgical breathing tubes?), Delfin presented an endless series of one-piece outfits, silky rompers and microshorts in pink and black.
• Agatha Ruiz de la Prada used citrus colors on young, kicky styles that included color-blocked caftans, dresses, sporty separates, harem pants, bloomers, tap skirts and microshorts dotted with floral motifs and signature hearts.
• Andrés Sardá featured exclusive floral prints by Etro for bikini styles and cover-ups.Creative director Nuria Sardá said the high-end Barcelona-based swimwear and lingerie company retains full design control after its June sale to the Belgium-based Van de Velde Group.
• José Miro sent out texture-conscious silhouettes like supershort dresses with peekaboo details in muted shades of eggshell, sand and stone; asymmetrical jumpsuits, and a knit poncho-dress.
For the first time in recent years, there was no trade fair running in tandem with Madrid Fashion Week.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion