For his first Berlin show, Mads Dinesen was inspired by the spirit of protest, and the Berlin-based Danish designer’s fashionably inflammatory presentation ended in rousing cheers. Pulling from a geography of global tribal influences, Dinesen delighted fashion fetishists with looks that melded the shamanistic, Foreign Legion and street warrior, sometimes to scary effect. Pants for men were full, wrapped or cropped, while unisex trousers narrowed at the ankle, with leather-looking panels on the back providing a built-in boot look. These were paired with message tops declaring “Fight the Fight” and “Choose your Battles” in embroidery and beading. Sweaters were short and layered over crepe tunics, or thickly knitted and bursting with wide fringe. For his first foray into women’s wear, Dinesen crafted long skirts and high-necked high-slit gowns, some in buffalo-checked flannel, while plush coats and jackets were chic and covetable, even for the bourgeoisie.

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