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For her Berlin Fashion Week debut, French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder captivated with a blend of hard, bondage-inspired looks and softly beautiful, mostly wool separates.
Hoermanseder, who studied at Esmod Berlin International University of Art for Fashion and interned at Alexander McQueen, has already attracted the attention of singers Lady Gaga, Peaches and Eve with her provocative designs that include sculpted high-collared bodices in creamy tones and multibuckled shoulder pieces, corsets and headpieces, all in vegetable-tanned leather. (She also created the harness-themed accessories for men’s wear line Sopopular, which showed earlier in the week.)
The designer cited orthopedic wear and the brain’s folds as inspiration, and some of these looks, such as a pair of strappy cropped bandage-colored chaps, certainly appeared uncomfortably clinical. On the flip side, elegant, well-cut wool trousers and pencil skirts, gently gathered and cinched tops and jackets and a velvety carved coat didn’t have to scream to make a strong impression.