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Marina Hoermanseder is one of those emerging designers who, right off the bat, hit on an unmistakable trademark look: straps of natural and, this season, bright red or stone gray leather, crossed, buckled, woven and/ or molded into corsets and skirts. Given the construction, these and fall’s molded fiberglass bustier, corset or a leather suspendered, sarcophagus shaped skirt, can literally stand by themselves. However, except to the likes of Lady Gaga, they’re not the easiest sell. Bags would be a natural progression, and in this her third season, Hoermanseder showed an expanded assortment in bucket, barrel and bellows pocket shapes. She neatly repeated the bucket and bellow shapes in corduroy, mohair knit, washed leather, plush wool and silk apparel, and also more convincingly integrated her hallmark leather straps, often most effective in miniature and just appearing on the back.

 

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