French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder loves to play with leather — molding, folding, weaving, twisting and strapping it into Fifties-style bodices, corsets, capes and buckled long skirts. For spring, she worked in a pastel palette of lemon, apricot and light blue that largely stripped the fetish vibe of her orthopedic-inspired looks, making some of them downright cute.

The 2013 Esmod Berlin graduate, who took second place in last week’s Start Your Fashion Business competition, and won the Premium Young Designer award for women’s wear, also featured long shorts and silky button-downs that referenced men’s wear, as well as pearly Neoprene jackets and rompers. Inspired by the sea, she introduced stone-coated fabrics and draped them into gleaming crenulation and wave shapes for tops and skirts. Hoermanseder’s showpieces, however, were the trompe l’oeil nude leather bodice worn over a muted blouse and leather shorts, and a bondage bridal look complete with a half face mask.

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