Marios Schwab skipped the catwalk this season, opting for one-on-one appointments at London’s Hotel Café Royal, where he showed a collection of elegant cocktail dresses and evening wear with delicate, intricate embellishments inspired by the nerves, muscles and sinews of the body.
Francis Bacon – and his offbeat take on the human form – was a major influence on Schwab, from the palette of burnt orange, vermillion, blue gray and black to the bejeweled detailing and pleating that followed the natural lines or musculature of a woman’s torso. The collection had a romantic feel – despite the anatomical references.
He put a fresh spin on the little black dress, adorning one body-skimming jacquard number with thin rows of Austrian filigree, 18-carat gold plated buttons that traced the lines of the torso and wrist. Another black dress, with a full skirt and puff sleeves, had a tulle slip that was embroidered with a bright red pattern resembling spindly nerve fibers, barely visible beneath the diaphanous black fabric.