Crisp cottons, athletic references, the expected artsy flourish: a reasonable recipe for keeping the Marni look current, and in the collection she showed on Tuesday, Consuelo Castiglione whipped it up into some appealing clothes.

Her dresses and skirts looked fresh, if at times a bit contrived; the bold prints far from precious, and the sports elements no-frills enough to keep a boho girl grounded in the fashion here-and-now.

But there's only so much mileage to be wrought from various pilings of half-belted dresses, cocoon skirts, warm-up jackets, leggings and the occasional Prada-esque bra, and Castiglione's show went on endlessly with few sparks.

Though in recent seasons she has successfully evolved the ethereal sugar into something more sophisticated, there's a lot to be said for a little excitement mixed in with the chic.

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