NEW YORK — Marvin Richards has landed the coat licenses for Calvin Klein and CK Calvin Klein, following the apparent demise of Fairbrooke Enterprises, once the king of the outerwear business for designer labels.

Calvin Klein Inc. said Wednesday the licenses for women’s coats would be picked up by Marvin Richards for the U.S., Canada and Mexico, confirming a report in WWD on Aug. 12.

“Women’s coats are an important business for us and we made a careful review of a number of potential partners before deciding on Marvin Richards,” Tom Murry, president and chief operating officer of CKI, said in a statement. “They impressed us with their capability to execute our designs and meet our expectations for product quality and on-time delivery.”

Mark Weber, president of Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., which acquired CKI this year, also pointed out that the Calvin Klein brand started in women’s outerwear, which remains an important category for the company.

“We are focusing on business opportunities that represent large volume potential in appropriate distribution channels,” he said.

The lines are expected to launch under Marvin Richards for fall 2004 retailing with an appropriately aggressive approach, said Sammy Aaron, president and chief executive officer of the 60-year-old firm.

“I believe the extensiveness of the lines will shock the market,” Aaron said. “We believe we will get full penetration of the marketplace and place these collections in every better department store and specialty store in America. We are going to be very aggressive and plan on having a very exhaustive line. Calvin Klein should be the most important vendor in coats for Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.”

Marvin Richards is a privately held company and distributes outerwear under its proprietary labels Marvin Richards, J. Percy and M.R. Apparel. The company also holds the license for coats under the St. John Coat Collection by Marie Gray label.

As reported, Fairbrooke, the 47-year-old outerwear firm that held the licenses for Calvin Klein, CK and DKNY coats, apparently ceased operations this month, leaving the future of those brands uncertain. Company executives have said Fairbrooke is currently looking at its strategic direction, but have not confirmed it will close.Meanwhile, executives at Calvin Klein and Donna Karan International had confirmed in recent weeks that they were aware of Fairbrooke’s financial problems and were already looking at other vendors to take over the licenses to ensure a seamless transition through the fall season. Donna Karan has not announced a new licensee to date, but sources have identified S. Rothschild & Co. and G-III Apparel Group as the leading contenders for the DKNY coat license.

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