Memo Pad: Esquire Gets Galotti … Different Drummer … Get Out the Boxes …
ESQUIRE GETS GALOTTI: Eight months after his abrupt departure from Vanity Fair, Ronald A. Galotti has resurfaced as publishing director of Hearst's Esquire and Esquire Gentleman. Alan Stiles continues as publisher of both titles....
ESQUIRE GETS GALOTTI: Eight months after his abrupt departure from Vanity Fair, Ronald A. Galotti has resurfaced as publishing director of Hearst's Esquire and Esquire Gentleman. Alan Stiles continues as publisher of both titles. Galotti will oversee ad sales efforts, marketing and the positioning of both titles, as well as the relaunch of Esquire under editor Edward Kosner.
DIFFERENT DRUMMER: Editorial and advertising don't always live in harmony, and the New York Times is no exception. Fashion doyenne Carrie Donovan was criticized by Times ad salespeople during the flush Eighties for being too exclusive in her coverage in Fashions of the Times, according to a new book, "Behind the Times," written by Edward Diamond, media columnist for New York magazine. Although the Times had discovered in Fashions of the Times "a new way to print money," Diamond writes that peace didn't exist between the ad and news departments.
"The Times advertising sales staff complained that Donovan featured fashions that were 'elitist,' 'fantasy,' 'impractical for ordinary people,"' he writes. "Worse, from the sales staff's perspective, FOT concentrated on the same select upper-end designers, principally Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein, Chanel and Norma Kamali."
So, according to Diamond's book, the two biggest "troublemakers" on the sales staff -- who were responsible for selling ads to mass-market manufacturers -- were offered and accepted early retirement, while Donovan continued to merrily deliver the upper crust.
GET OUT THE BOXES: It may be January, but there's some spring cleaning going on at Elle magazine. Two of the magazine's four senior market editors left this week: accessories editor Suzanne Yalof and editor-at-large Tara Kaplan. Lucy Wallace, most recently senior editor at Harper's Bazaar, has been named accessories director, and Kaplan's post will be filled by Victoria Bonomo and Anthony Todd, both current Elle staffers.
TRIPLE PLAY: Richard Avedon has photographed a 26-page advertising portfolio for Neiman Marcus that will appear in the March issue of Harper's Bazaar. The black-and-white campaign features model Nadja Auermann and shows clothes by 30 top designers. Neiman's officials wouldn't comment on the cost of producing and running the portfolio, but sources estimate it to be around $800,000.NEW AGE: Caroline Miller is caught in something of a time warp. She's in the middle of moving to her new job as editor of Seventeen from her current post as editor of the decidedly more mature Lear's. Now, she says she has to focus on her teenage daughter's generation rather than her own.
On top of that came this week's news of 35-year-old James Truman's appointment as editorial director at Conde Nast.
"In one fell swoop, a whole generation of editors suddenly felt old," said Miller, 41.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)