Memo Pad: Esquire Gets Galotti … Different Drummer … Get Out the Boxes …
ESQUIRE GETS GALOTTI: Eight months after his abrupt departure from Vanity Fair, Ronald A. Galotti has resurfaced as publishing director of Hearst's Esquire and Esquire Gentleman. Alan Stiles continues as publisher of both titles....
ESQUIRE GETS GALOTTI: Eight months after his abrupt departure from Vanity Fair, Ronald A. Galotti has resurfaced as publishing director of Hearst's Esquire and Esquire Gentleman. Alan Stiles continues as publisher of both titles. Galotti will oversee ad sales efforts, marketing and the positioning of both titles, as well as the relaunch of Esquire under editor Edward Kosner.
DIFFERENT DRUMMER: Editorial and advertising don't always live in harmony, and the New York Times is no exception. Fashion doyenne Carrie Donovan was criticized by Times ad salespeople during the flush Eighties for being too exclusive in her coverage in Fashions of the Times, according to a new book, "Behind the Times," written by Edward Diamond, media columnist for New York magazine. Although the Times had discovered in Fashions of the Times "a new way to print money," Diamond writes that peace didn't exist between the ad and news departments.
"The Times advertising sales staff complained that Donovan featured fashions that were 'elitist,' 'fantasy,' 'impractical for ordinary people,"' he writes. "Worse, from the sales staff's perspective, FOT concentrated on the same select upper-end designers, principally Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein, Chanel and Norma Kamali."
So, according to Diamond's book, the two biggest "troublemakers" on the sales staff -- who were responsible for selling ads to mass-market manufacturers -- were offered and accepted early retirement, while Donovan continued to merrily deliver the upper crust.
GET OUT THE BOXES: It may be January, but there's some spring cleaning going on at Elle magazine. Two of the magazine's four senior market editors left this week: accessories editor Suzanne Yalof and editor-at-large Tara Kaplan. Lucy Wallace, most recently senior editor at Harper's Bazaar, has been named accessories director, and Kaplan's post will be filled by Victoria Bonomo and Anthony Todd, both current Elle staffers.
TRIPLE PLAY: Richard Avedon has photographed a 26-page advertising portfolio for Neiman Marcus that will appear in the March issue of Harper's Bazaar. The black-and-white campaign features model Nadja Auermann and shows clothes by 30 top designers. Neiman's officials wouldn't comment on the cost of producing and running the portfolio, but sources estimate it to be around $800,000.NEW AGE: Caroline Miller is caught in something of a time warp. She's in the middle of moving to her new job as editor of Seventeen from her current post as editor of the decidedly more mature Lear's. Now, she says she has to focus on her teenage daughter's generation rather than her own.
On top of that came this week's news of 35-year-old James Truman's appointment as editorial director at Conde Nast.
"In one fell swoop, a whole generation of editors suddenly felt old," said Miller, 41.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)