MILAN — Milan is as much about the accessories as the clothes — and this season offered more than ever, as designers showed lots of hats, different interpretations of the scarf, umbrellas and lots of gloves. Shoes had equestrian details; briefcases were in textured leathers and fabrics, and suitcases came in exotic skins and even fur. Here, a roundup of the key accessories presentations of the season:
• Tod’s continues to build its lifestyle collection with soft suede shearling jackets, crocodile or embossed calf totes and practical wallets. Footwear remains the Italian luxury brand’s core business, and for fall Tod’s showed formal lace-up loafers with rounded toes, contrasting with more casual and featherlight rubber soles.
• Taking a cue from F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hogan displayed a laid-back, understated collection of brushed, distressed nubuck, suede or sheepskin sneakers.
• At Sergio Rossi, creative director Francesco Russo re-elaborated the brand’s formal staples by mixing Eastern and Western styles, streetwear and bourgeois inspirations. Case in point: the ankle boot with elastic inserts and accents of brightly colored rubber soles or combat boots with scuba-gear details.
• Valextra worked a high-performance and virtually indestructible fabric made of Kevlar fibers and polyamide into totes and travel bags, at times accenting the calfskin handles and trims in canary yellow, orange or green. It also showed a new calfskin briefcase with two front pockets and a detachable shoulder strap.
• Creative director Alberto Moretti injected a new twist into Arfango’s signature velvet slippers, which were decorated with gold studs, mirrors, Swarovski crystals, sequins and burlesque-inspired embroideries. “Considering the difficult, dark times, we wanted to do something ironic and fun, which can help to take on life in a more carefree manner,” Moretti said.
• The Eighties served as the main inspiration for Cesare Paciotti’s collection, which included studded combat boots embellished with tassels and lapin details, or colorful, flexible loafers lined with fur. Paciotti also played with proportions, as shown on a derby shoe featuring an oversize rubber sole with contrast stitching.
• Gianvito Rossi reimagined the leather sneaker, which came both in low- or high-top versions. Available with shoelaces or straps, it showed an elongated silhouette and perfect proportions. In addition, there was a style with a zip on the back. The off-white rubber sole was paired with the upper in a range of colors — from black and deep brown to camel and green. Rossi also introduced a loafer and a lace-up style, featuring ponyskin, snakeskin and printed suede details.
• The All Over collection was launched at Fratelli Rossetti. Loafers, derby shoes, ankle boots and combat boots were completely hand-painted in one color by artisans, which takes at least three days. The color palette ranged from blueberry and burgundy to teal and bottle green.
• Bally’s designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz were in a sporty mood this season, updating the traditional curling shoe, which can spin 360 degrees on the ice, into high-top and low-top versions, and turning out a host of hiking boots and sheepskin-lined boots with buckles on the sides. Outerwear was made with mountain men in mind: Tweed jackets and zippers were waterproof, while coats were made from a mix of Shetland wool and leather.
• With the Mayfair playboy as its abiding muse, Jimmy Choo has expanded its offer this season. New additions include a side-zip, Jimi Hendrix-inspired boot in psychedelic-colored python, and leather high-top sneakers. The brand expanded some of its current ranges, adding shearling lining to driving shoes, and mixing a subtle suit-of-card motif into the perforations at the tip of the brogue boots and shoes. The brand also expanded its range of evening slippers, covering them in Persian lamb or salt-and-pepper glitter.
• Under its creative director, Alessandro Fumagalli, Zagliani remained true to its luxury heritage. The designer worked exotic skins, including ostrich, crocodile, python and karung lizard into practical pieces such as luggage trolleys, briefcases, sturdy duffel bags and rucksacks.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)