MILAN — Milan is as much about the accessories as the clothes — and this season offered more than ever, as designers showed lots of hats, different interpretations of the scarf, umbrellas and lots of gloves. Shoes had equestrian details; briefcases were in textured leathers and fabrics, and suitcases came in exotic skins and even fur. Here, a roundup of the key accessories presentations of the season:
• Tod’s continues to build its lifestyle collection with soft suede shearling jackets, crocodile or embossed calf totes and practical wallets. Footwear remains the Italian luxury brand’s core business, and for fall Tod’s showed formal lace-up loafers with rounded toes, contrasting with more casual and featherlight rubber soles.
• Taking a cue from F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hogan displayed a laid-back, understated collection of brushed, distressed nubuck, suede or sheepskin sneakers.
• At Sergio Rossi, creative director Francesco Russo re-elaborated the brand’s formal staples by mixing Eastern and Western styles, streetwear and bourgeois inspirations. Case in point: the ankle boot with elastic inserts and accents of brightly colored rubber soles or combat boots with scuba-gear details.
• Valextra worked a high-performance and virtually indestructible fabric made of Kevlar fibers and polyamide into totes and travel bags, at times accenting the calfskin handles and trims in canary yellow, orange or green. It also showed a new calfskin briefcase with two front pockets and a detachable shoulder strap.
• Creative director Alberto Moretti injected a new twist into Arfango’s signature velvet slippers, which were decorated with gold studs, mirrors, Swarovski crystals, sequins and burlesque-inspired embroideries. “Considering the difficult, dark times, we wanted to do something ironic and fun, which can help to take on life in a more carefree manner,” Moretti said.
• The Eighties served as the main inspiration for Cesare Paciotti’s collection, which included studded combat boots embellished with tassels and lapin details, or colorful, flexible loafers lined with fur. Paciotti also played with proportions, as shown on a derby shoe featuring an oversize rubber sole with contrast stitching.
• Gianvito Rossi reimagined the leather sneaker, which came both in low- or high-top versions. Available with shoelaces or straps, it showed an elongated silhouette and perfect proportions. In addition, there was a style with a zip on the back. The off-white rubber sole was paired with the upper in a range of colors — from black and deep brown to camel and green. Rossi also introduced a loafer and a lace-up style, featuring ponyskin, snakeskin and printed suede details.
• The All Over collection was launched at Fratelli Rossetti. Loafers, derby shoes, ankle boots and combat boots were completely hand-painted in one color by artisans, which takes at least three days. The color palette ranged from blueberry and burgundy to teal and bottle green.
• Bally’s designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz were in a sporty mood this season, updating the traditional curling shoe, which can spin 360 degrees on the ice, into high-top and low-top versions, and turning out a host of hiking boots and sheepskin-lined boots with buckles on the sides. Outerwear was made with mountain men in mind: Tweed jackets and zippers were waterproof, while coats were made from a mix of Shetland wool and leather.
• With the Mayfair playboy as its abiding muse, Jimmy Choo has expanded its offer this season. New additions include a side-zip, Jimi Hendrix-inspired boot in psychedelic-colored python, and leather high-top sneakers. The brand expanded some of its current ranges, adding shearling lining to driving shoes, and mixing a subtle suit-of-card motif into the perforations at the tip of the brogue boots and shoes. The brand also expanded its range of evening slippers, covering them in Persian lamb or salt-and-pepper glitter.
• Under its creative director, Alessandro Fumagalli, Zagliani remained true to its luxury heritage. The designer worked exotic skins, including ostrich, crocodile, python and karung lizard into practical pieces such as luggage trolleys, briefcases, sturdy duffel bags and rucksacks.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
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24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
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Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye