Y-3, the collaboration between Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto, took inspiration for its show from the 2010 World Cup. The clothes, which boasted patriotic insignias and colors, were not inspired by team uniforms, but by the fans, Yamamoto said backstage. So it was only fitting the most unforgettable player of the last World Cup, France’s Zinedine Zidane, took part. At the end of the show, a net dropped down and six of the female models took feeble shots on goal before Zidane, joined by Yohji Yamamoto, showed them all how it’s done. Applause! Backstage, the retired player said he had no plans to get involved in soccer again. Asked to predict the next World Cup winner, he gave the safest possible answer: “Je ne sais pas.”
THRILLER'S LAST RIDE
Just as fans staged a massive moonwalk on the Champs de Mars in Paris on June 26, so, too, did designers pay their respects to Michael Jackson after the music icon died. Paul Smith and his models boogied down the runway to “Thriller.” Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, meanwhile, said his dapper-rapper styles paid tribute to Jackson with metal-festooned shirts in shimmering gold and cropped tuxedo jackets. In New York, the soundtrack for the Y-3 show was national anthems and Jackson songs, a credit to their global appeal. Back in Paris, celebrities at the shows also were visibly distraught at the news of Jackson’s death on June 25. “It’s a great loss. I’ve taken it very, very hard,” said Usher at Rick Owens, adding he was still reeling from the shock. “We worked a lot together, we actually performed together one time. We’ve seen each other a lot over the years.” Of Jackson’s contribution to the worlds of both music and fashion, Usher said: “It would have been so much more.”
THOM BROWNE, PROVOCATEUR
The ever-controversial Thom Browne took some barbs this season for a show that seemed more absurdist than ever, partly because of a lack of context or showmanship. There was no choreography, no set design, no theme—just a simple procession through the designer’s bare Tribeca store, putting the clothes in a harsh light. Browne heaped a hodgepodge of kooky sportswear and accessories on top of his avant-garde tailoring and obvious showpieces, such as a fish-tail tuxedo covered in black paillettes. A neoprene microskort, anyone? A polka-dotted halter romper? And don’t forget the lipstick. Perhaps it’s a credit to Browne that, after several years of smashing taboos—first with exposed ankles and shrunken suits, then with more extreme proportions, femininity and deadpan perversity—these notions failed to shock or amuse this time around. He did accomplish an about-face from the fascist uniformity of his last show, and from his signature shrunken suit. His new suit has round shoulders, wider sleeves and swingy, cuffed trousers. And to be sure, some critics applauded Browne’s unwavering audacity. He has always sought to elicit strong reactions—love it or hate it. He got his wish.
Come rain or shine, the show must go on—as Dries Van Noten proved in Paris. Having planned to seat his guests on the sunny steps of the Palais Brongniart, the Belgian designer moved the crowd last minute under the arcades of the historic financial institution, just in time to avoid a torrential downpour. While the fashion flock squeezed together to dodge raindrops, Van Noten’s DJ dodged a penalty, spinning recent radio hits from the bed of a truck, despite the lack of a music permit, to deafen the sleepy business neighborhood.
Whatever their meaning, if any, the gold logos and reptile motifs that pervaded Raf Simons’ enigmatic collection created a stir in a sumptuous Paris 7th arrondissement garden, where the show was set. Theories as to what the gold R’s and S’s emblazoned on the backsides of jeans and the coiling snake motifs on trousers or transparent shirts might mean extended from biblical allusions to riffs on conspicuous consumption—or simply experimentation. But the designer wasn’t giving anything away, evading questions after the show. “There’s a bit of everything. It is what it is,” Simons said.
Four seasons ago when Angela Missoni tacked men’s wear to her creative duties, taking over from her brother, Luca, little did she imagine she would enjoy it so much. Backstage, just minutes before the show, a bronzed and smiley Missoni described how she was inspired by a dreamy globe-trotter, one who “travels extensively and mixes the various cultures.” The theme might not be groundbreaking, but in Missoni’s hands, the melting-pot references looked edgy and modern. Moreover, the collection further underscored how the designer is succeeding in turning the house’s distinctive, and at times challenging, signatures into hip, modern garb. Africa, India, China and England were all tossed into the mix as Missoni delivered endless variations of one look—crinkled outerwear breezily layered over cotton shirts and rolled-up checkered pants or faded jeans, paired with the house’s signature knits. This eclectic wardrobe with a grungy undercurrent is spring’s passport for a new-generation Missoni man.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews