In fashion, the future is clear. Say farewell to fuzzy numbers and hiding behind the corporate veil as fabrics accentuate the obvious for spring. “I really like the concept of transparency with what’s going on in this recession,” said Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection men’s creative director. “I saw some X-ray pictures of objects and wanted to translate the concept into clothes.” Zucchelli chose mesh that worked as a network, with netting forming perfect diamonds, all in harmony. A black mesh jacket has a sporty, techno feel, but is
actually constructed of starched cotton. “I wanted to make references to athleticwear, but also make the extreme mesh really open and show it in a way you can understand,” he said. “I didn’t want to put a guy naked underneath. Realistically, a jacket with open mesh is worn with a T-shirt.” Prada layered mesh upon mesh, capturing the peekaboo element of it all. Rick Owens went more literal with transparent fabrics and a bare-chested wet T-shirt look in his collection, while Dior Homme kept discreet in collared black shirtings almost fit for the office. “I used transparent fabrics to give the garment a very lightweight, airy feel,” said designer Tim Hamilton. His bare tendencies came in the form of gray and white anoraks reminiscent of a rain-drenched camping trip. Moncler Gamme Bleu took semitransparent plaid rain suits poolside, as if to say this functional interpretation truly holds water. — Suzanne Blecher

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