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Michael Sontag is known as Berlin’s master of simplicity, but behind the scenes it must have been a complicated few days. Sontag showed a full collection at the Lavera Showfloor, a lively and casual one-day event at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin that highlighted eco-fashion ranging from the elegant to the everyday. There were his signature, deceptively simple-looking silk dresses, cut on the bias, draped or gathered, with only the almost-hidden seams hinting at the construction magic behind them. Elegant coats and sophisticated suiting separates and sweaters had the potential to be wardrobe favorites for strong, silent types. But rough natural-colored linen pieces and knits printed with a vine and flower pattern felt like a half-hearted stab at textbook green fashion.

For the many who undoubtedly missed Sontag’s showing away from MBFWB, the best of the collection was displayed in a tableau vivant the next day at the Berliner Mode Salon. In the refined and quieter setting, the selection of looks — including a blazer dangling ribbons from its buttonholes, and sheer fine wool trousers lined only to the knees — really shone.

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