One of Berlin’s most cerebral and serious designers, Michael Sontag introduced a new sense of ease and even dishabille with his spring collection. Working with artist Caroline Bayer on a zigzagged runway reflecting the pyramid roof structure of Berlin Fashion Week’s new show venue in the Erika-Hess Ice Stadium, Sontag also played with all manners of points and Vs: assymetric hems of scarflike skirts and lapels, the necklines and sleeves of tuniclike tops and arty shifts, the simplest red toga gown and a series of navy and white pieces cut and sewn together in stripes or fractured patterns.
While still voluminous, Sontag’s folded and draped silks, both shiny and raw, managed to move close to the body, while tailored items like a sleeveless short white coat and boxy lapel-less black cardigan jacket added some edge. Silk knits stood out, from the simplest sweater dress to various items with weblike straps and bodices formed via rips. As Sontag noted after the show, “I don’t draw my pieces. I literally work on them.”
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)