MILAN — Despite last-minute squabbles between designers, the dust has settled on the Milan Fashion Week calendar.
Scheduled to run Sept. 23 to 30, the week is in reality more compact, with shows picking up on Sept. 24, winding down on Sept. 27 and central days that are “too intense,” according to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion.
Blugirl, Antonio Marras and Just Cavalli kick off the week on Sept. 24, followed by two Giorgio Armani shows and D&G, which is now off the calendar in the same slot as Krizia, at 4 p.m. Dolce & Gabbana is also off calendar, showing at 1 p.m. on Sept. 27, between John Richmond and Etro. Fendi, originally slated for Sept. 28, did not find an agreement with the Chamber and will show off calendar on Sept. 27 at 11 a.m., overlapping with Mariella Burani at 11:15 a.m. A Fendi spokesperson said the company was “very sorry a solution could not be found.” Versus, originally penciled in on Sept. 28 at 3:30 p.m., moved its presentation to Sept. 27 at 6:30 p.m., between Gaetano Navarra and Ter et Bantine.
Max Mara also pushed back its show from Sept. 28 to Sept. 26 at 10:45 a.m. because it “could not risk missing out on the foreign press,” said the company’s president of communications Giorgio Guidotti. He was referring to the fact that most of the international press may now be expected to conclude coverage of Milan on Sept. 27, given the threadbare schedule the following day, which conflicts with Yom Kippur.
Boselli said he was surprised by the shuffling of slots, given the holiday falling on Sept. 28 was common knowledge. “We are very respectful of different religions. The calendars are organized internationally, Yom Kippur happens during Milan this year, and it will coincide with Paris in two years, for example.” Boselli said the calendar was ready at the end of July, but that last week “it was suddenly turned on its head.”
“Our designers are great creators, but when they move they are like the proverbial elephants in a glass shop,” said Boselli, adding he was convinced the economy was going to bring fashion houses to be “more balanced and to show more solidarity,” but that, on the other hand, “everyone is more nervous.”
But several sources said Yom Kippur was only an excuse to shorten show week once again in order to help the international press cut costs and reduce their stay in Milan. “Designers are worried they are not going to get the attention they need now more than ever,” said one observer, who requested anonymity.
Moschino Cheap and Chic, two Prada shows, Albino and C’N’C’ Costume National will wrap up Sept 24. Gianfranco Ferré, Versace, Jil Sander, Emporio Armani and Gucci are all scheduled to hold separate shows for retailers and the press between Sept. 25 and 26. Most of the shows are focused on those two days, with Blumarine, Sportmax, Ermanno Scervino, Luisa Beccaria and Alberta Ferretti on Sept. 25, followed by Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg, Moschino, Brioni and Emilio Pucci the next day. Two Marni shows; Missoni, which this season will hold one show only; Salvatore Ferragamo, and Aquilano e Rimondi are all scheduled on Sept. 27, leaving Dsquared, Les Copains, Laura Biagiotti and Maurizio Pecorarothe following day.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Pollini, Trussardi, La Perla, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada and Alberto Biani are not showing this season. The city’s fashion week is poised to continue with Mila Schön, among others, on Sept. 29 and Pakistani, Colombian, Russian and Indian designers on Sept. 30.
Next year, Milan Fashion Week runs Feb. 24 to March 3 and Sept. 22 to 29. The men’s shows are scheduled Jan. 16 to 20 and June 19 to 23.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye