MILAN — Despite last-minute squabbles between designers, the dust has settled on the Milan Fashion Week calendar.
Scheduled to run Sept. 23 to 30, the week is in reality more compact, with shows picking up on Sept. 24, winding down on Sept. 27 and central days that are “too intense,” according to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion.
Blugirl, Antonio Marras and Just Cavalli kick off the week on Sept. 24, followed by two Giorgio Armani shows and D&G, which is now off the calendar in the same slot as Krizia, at 4 p.m. Dolce & Gabbana is also off calendar, showing at 1 p.m. on Sept. 27, between John Richmond and Etro. Fendi, originally slated for Sept. 28, did not find an agreement with the Chamber and will show off calendar on Sept. 27 at 11 a.m., overlapping with Mariella Burani at 11:15 a.m. A Fendi spokesperson said the company was “very sorry a solution could not be found.” Versus, originally penciled in on Sept. 28 at 3:30 p.m., moved its presentation to Sept. 27 at 6:30 p.m., between Gaetano Navarra and Ter et Bantine.
Max Mara also pushed back its show from Sept. 28 to Sept. 26 at 10:45 a.m. because it “could not risk missing out on the foreign press,” said the company’s president of communications Giorgio Guidotti. He was referring to the fact that most of the international press may now be expected to conclude coverage of Milan on Sept. 27, given the threadbare schedule the following day, which conflicts with Yom Kippur.
Boselli said he was surprised by the shuffling of slots, given the holiday falling on Sept. 28 was common knowledge. “We are very respectful of different religions. The calendars are organized internationally, Yom Kippur happens during Milan this year, and it will coincide with Paris in two years, for example.” Boselli said the calendar was ready at the end of July, but that last week “it was suddenly turned on its head.”
“Our designers are great creators, but when they move they are like the proverbial elephants in a glass shop,” said Boselli, adding he was convinced the economy was going to bring fashion houses to be “more balanced and to show more solidarity,” but that, on the other hand, “everyone is more nervous.”
But several sources said Yom Kippur was only an excuse to shorten show week once again in order to help the international press cut costs and reduce their stay in Milan. “Designers are worried they are not going to get the attention they need now more than ever,” said one observer, who requested anonymity.
Moschino Cheap and Chic, two Prada shows, Albino and C’N’C’ Costume National will wrap up Sept 24. Gianfranco Ferré, Versace, Jil Sander, Emporio Armani and Gucci are all scheduled to hold separate shows for retailers and the press between Sept. 25 and 26. Most of the shows are focused on those two days, with Blumarine, Sportmax, Ermanno Scervino, Luisa Beccaria and Alberta Ferretti on Sept. 25, followed by Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg, Moschino, Brioni and Emilio Pucci the next day. Two Marni shows; Missoni, which this season will hold one show only; Salvatore Ferragamo, and Aquilano e Rimondi are all scheduled on Sept. 27, leaving Dsquared, Les Copains, Laura Biagiotti and Maurizio Pecorarothe following day.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Pollini, Trussardi, La Perla, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada and Alberto Biani are not showing this season. The city’s fashion week is poised to continue with Mila Schön, among others, on Sept. 29 and Pakistani, Colombian, Russian and Indian designers on Sept. 30.
Next year, Milan Fashion Week runs Feb. 24 to March 3 and Sept. 22 to 29. The men’s shows are scheduled Jan. 16 to 20 and June 19 to 23.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast