Easy does it. That’s the mood here as the city, hit by a cold snap, preps for Milan Fashion Week. And given the global recession, forget glitz, hype and pomp as designers opt for realism over surrealism.
A Pambianco study issued Wednesday confirmed fashion and luxury goods companies are in for a tough first half, stressing that the dismal outlook makes everyone hope all the investment in overseas markets will generate results.
“Regardless of the year-end mini rally, the evaluation of publicly listed fashion companies is at historical minimum, with a drop in profits of between 30 to 40 percent expected for 2009,” the report stated.
It’s no surprise, then, that the schedule is a day shorter versus the original plan of five days, primarily the consequence of dropouts. Fendi, Marni and Valentino all nixed runway shows in favor of low-key presentations, some for buyers only. Among the numerous designers who went from a fashion show to nothing are Romeo Gigli, Antonio Marras, Krizia Uomo, Laura Biagiotti and Calvin Klein, who will show in New York. Overall, 18 shows or presentations were canceled altogether. There are still newcomers to watch, though, from John Varvatos making a return to Milan, to Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi launching their first men’s collection for Gianfranco Ferré. “There is always a bit of risk involved when doing something for the first time, but that’s the role of the designer: to propose new ideas and [in this case] to find a balance with Ferré’s history,” Aquilano said.
Olivier Gerber, sales and marketing director at the Four Seasons in Milan, said the hotel is seeing a 20 percent drop in reservations compared with the same period of last year. “Most people canceled very early in time, but we’re certainly feeling the impact of a smaller U.S. presence because it was the market with the strongest turnout,” Gerber said.
Visitors most likely won’t get to see the city blanketed in white stuff, as it was recently because snowstorms aren’t on the horizon. But that still doesn’t mean getting to and from — or around — Italy’s fashion capital will be easy. For example, Malpensa airport has seen the number of direct flights cut back now that Air France has taken a stake in Alitalia, so landing there will be more challenging than ever. Buon giorno!
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)