Easy does it. That’s the mood here as the city, hit by a cold snap, preps for Milan Fashion Week. And given the global recession, forget glitz, hype and pomp as designers opt for realism over surrealism.
A Pambianco study issued Wednesday confirmed fashion and luxury goods companies are in for a tough first half, stressing that the dismal outlook makes everyone hope all the investment in overseas markets will generate results.
“Regardless of the year-end mini rally, the evaluation of publicly listed fashion companies is at historical minimum, with a drop in profits of between 30 to 40 percent expected for 2009,” the report stated.
It’s no surprise, then, that the schedule is a day shorter versus the original plan of five days, primarily the consequence of dropouts. Fendi, Marni and Valentino all nixed runway shows in favor of low-key presentations, some for buyers only. Among the numerous designers who went from a fashion show to nothing are Romeo Gigli, Antonio Marras, Krizia Uomo, Laura Biagiotti and Calvin Klein, who will show in New York. Overall, 18 shows or presentations were canceled altogether. There are still newcomers to watch, though, from John Varvatos making a return to Milan, to Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi launching their first men’s collection for Gianfranco Ferré. “There is always a bit of risk involved when doing something for the first time, but that’s the role of the designer: to propose new ideas and [in this case] to find a balance with Ferré’s history,” Aquilano said.
Olivier Gerber, sales and marketing director at the Four Seasons in Milan, said the hotel is seeing a 20 percent drop in reservations compared with the same period of last year. “Most people canceled very early in time, but we’re certainly feeling the impact of a smaller U.S. presence because it was the market with the strongest turnout,” Gerber said.
Visitors most likely won’t get to see the city blanketed in white stuff, as it was recently because snowstorms aren’t on the horizon. But that still doesn’t mean getting to and from — or around — Italy’s fashion capital will be easy. For example, Malpensa airport has seen the number of direct flights cut back now that Air France has taken a stake in Alitalia, so landing there will be more challenging than ever. Buon giorno!
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye