The Milan Fashion Week calendar is shorter and more intense than ever, with the major houses squeezed into four days — from Thursday to Sunday — because of Yom Kippur, and no letup in the accompanying social events. In addition to the shows, the fetes span from the opening of Prada’s new concept store to Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce appearing at La Rinascente and Stefanel feting its 50th anniversary.
But there clearly are concerns. Most fashion houses decline to talk about a business outlook for spring 2010 because of the ongoing global recession. The weak dollar against the euro is likely to cause U.S. retailers to take an even tougher line on prices for spring 2010 than they did for this fall. And buyers and the fashion press will be counting every lire in hotels and restaurants as they deal with their own budget cuts. Managers at most of the five-star hotels — including the Four Seasons, the Hotel Bulgari, the Principe di Savoia and the Hotel Baglioni — claim to be fully booked but concurred many clients waited until the last minute to confirm their reservations.
It’s still early to tell whether it will be a high wattage or lackluster celebrity season since the only ones confirmed so far are Mary J Blige at Gucci and Rachel Bilson at Ferragamo.
There are a few shows today and the festivities kick off tonight with the inauguration of Louis Vuitton’s “Ecritures Silencieuses” exhibition at Palazzo Dugnani, marking the first time the brand has displayed one of its shows outside of Paris’ Espace Culturel. The crux of the show, which runs through Oct. 31, are three inscribed Rongo Rongo tablets from the Polynesian island of Rapa Nui that will be displayed alongside the works of artists such as Barbara Kruger, Giuseppe Penone and Tracey Emin.
On the heels of its show on Thursday, Prada will reopen its Corso Venezia store to unveil a revamped look. The 6,480-square-foot unit is Prada’s first dedicated to a made-to-order service via which customers can personalize their favorite style. For example, there are five jeans styles that can be developed in 14 fabrics and 22 washes and stitched with any color thread the consumer wishes.
The choice for quilted down jackets is between nylon, silk satin and duchesse and wool gabardine in a selection of 100 colors. Ditto on the accessories front, where customers can walk away with a pair of crocodile boots bearing their initials and in a skin they selected from 10 different colorways. Even basic white T-shirts can be personalized with one’s initials. The price range for denim spans from $281 to $1,139.
The store’s decor breaks away from the house’s traditional sage green look to highlight contrasting elements such as butter-colored marble, ebony, pumpkin orange panels, micro perforated steel walls, glass and wooden or etched leather curtains.
The launch of a Prada book, initially scheduled for show week, instead was put off to a later day.
To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Stefanel teamed up with knitwear designers Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann of Cooperative Designs. The British duo designed Stefanel 50, a capsule collection of 10 revisited iconic pieces, which will be on display at Galleria Cardi on Thursday.
“We wanted to mark this milestone with a special collection that represents the best of our heritage and encapsulates our vision for the future,” said Gruppo Stefanel chairman Giuseppe Stefanel.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)