When it comes to Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada’s presence in Paris is no passing fancy: She recently signed a long-term lease on a spectacular private mansion on the Avenue Foch where she expects to show for some time.
And in her second outing, she put a punctuation mark on this peculiar season. It was neither exclamation point nor bland “It’s over” period. Rather, with the collection she proposed on Sunday night, Prada offered an essential question mark: Is there valid fashion between overt femininity and cartoon futurism? Is there a fresh way to approach structure and minimalism?
Though Prada is still often regarded as the ultimate intellectual-artistic designer, that handle describes her only in part. By her own admission, she is immersed in the commerce game, loves the challenge and approaches design from that hybrid perspective. Thus, the questions raised by her show were as much about what will sell next spring as about the need for artistic diversity.
Her position was anti-frill; severe structure with a strong architectural bent and no-nonsense attitude. But she achieved this with none of the plasticized posing seen elsewhere. Rather, Prada rendered precision control in rich-toned color blocks of stiff satin and faille, opening with small-collared shirts over trousers. Though these seemed uncomfortably rigid and even heavy, the motif evolved beautifully with determined dresses and miniskirts, the latter often crafted from inverted arcs of fabric for a modernist scallop effect. These, as well as looks appliquéd with bunched, swirling fabric strips, made for a deft decorative minimalism, and one can envision legions of fashionable women embracing the mood.
Prada softened up slightly with long silk dresses emblazoned with bold tribal prints and more so with charming tennis fare. But even these retained a certain austerity, in a collection that this season made for a much-needed dose of alternative chic of the salable sort.
For complete coverage see tomorrow's issue of WWD.
"'Dynasty' is all about gowns, the diamonds and the scandal, so it's a bit like the fashion industry. When we come to Cannes it's all about the red carpet dresses too, so it all fit really well," said designer @philippplein78 on the theme of his high-glamour resort 2019 show at his mansion in Cannes. #wwdfashion #cannes (📷: @zefashioninsider)
"I think Spike is such a brilliant director because he holds up a mirror to society and reflects these issues, yet he doesn't shove it down your throat, he doesn't tell you what to think," says @lauraharrier on her latest film @Blackkklansman. Harrier was at the Cannes Film Festival – for the very first time – with @officialspikelee. #wwdeye #cannes (📷: @zefashioninsider)
“I would think to myself, Are you happy? Yes, I’m wildly happy. I go to this studio every day and, in my inside voices, I’m giggling; I’m singing. Yes, it’s a lot of work, it’s a [huge] volume of material. It wouldn’t be for everybody. But I was very happy,” said soap opera star @therealsusanlucci of checking in throughout the years with her career trajectory. Lucci spoke to WWD about her decades-long career, love for pilates, motherhood and her QVC activewear line. Read Bridget Foley’s full piece on Lucci on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @celestesloman)
@balmain has taken a stand at the #cannes Film Festival, dressing 16 actresses at a press call for the project “Noire N’est Pas Mon Metier,” or “Black Is Not My Profession.” The multimedia project includes a book, photo exhibit and documentary, which aims to expose discrimination in the French and American entertainment industries. “The moment I was asked to participate, I knew it was right for me, and for this brand, to form a part of this moment,” Balmain creative director @olivier_rousteing told WWD. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
"I always feel curious and I feel like there's more to learn. But I think being relevant, feeling relevant, I personally always feel that there's just so much more to know. And maybe that's the key.” — @themarcjacobs #wwdsummits #wwdbeauty (📷: @patrickmacleodphoto )
“The most amazing thing about her is that, regardless of all the things that have happened to her, her spirit is so undaunted by all of it. She is the most cheerful person you will ever meet. She doesn’t see problems, she only sees solutions,” said @ajanaomi_king of activist Ifrah Ahmed, who she plays in a new film “A Girl from Mogadishu.” WWD caught up with King at Cannes — Head to WWD.com to read more about her new role, personal style and how she uses social media for causes like Time’s Up and Black Lives Matter #wwdeye
WWD asked a number designers to share their thoughts on what Meghan Markle’s wedding gown will look like this Saturday. Here, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli sketches his look. #wwdfashion #royalwedding #meghanmarkle