NEW YORK — As a whole, the American collections haven’t been much to write home about. It would appear that safe, and in some cases, dull, is the biggest trend of the season. But that’s not to say there haven’t been a few solid...
NEW YORK — As a whole, the American collections haven’t been much to write home about. It would appear that safe, and in some cases, dull, is the biggest trend of the season. But that’s not to say there haven’t been a few solid efforts and bright spots.
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler made a big noise last season with the Parsons thesis they parlayed into a fall collection for Barneys. Their ethos of easy elegance combined with a perfectionist’s love of details has had editors and retailers buzzing. And their spring lineup, in washed-out pink, gray and beige, did not disappoint. They paired fabrics in unlikely combinations that could work for day or night: the cotton twill jacket with a flippy satin skirt, a handbeaded, washed-silk tank worn over cotton boy shorts.
Unfortunately, Behnaz Sarafpour seemed to be off the mark. Though thoughtfully crafted, her presentation didn’t have a clear direction, jumping from black or white wrapped minidresses and a group of black satin swimsuit-looking pieces to vibrant hand-painted looks. She should have further explored the latter group, which were a fun and cool representation of what she’s known for.
Over at m.r.s., Molly Stern and her posse of designers delivered a tight 15-piece collection of what her customers—such as Ellen Barkin and Julianne Moore, who got the address wrong and showed up too late—love best: hip, artsy clothes that aren’t too tricky. This time, there was a cinched blouse over little shorts or a sexy cowlneck halter top and flared skirt, all with her signature stitched details. Meanwhile, Han Feng served up a good dose of sheer feminine layers in soft pinks, orange and green on clean-cut jackets and tops and pants with ribbon details.
Michael Soheil worked a tropical theme with splashes of coral, peach and yellow on mostly cream looks — embroidered tulle and tiered dresses, sequined tops and lots of slim pants. But he should have stayed away from the tricky crocheted swimwear. The best of the Robert Best show were his navy double-faced satin peacoat over a chiffon skirt and all those luxurious prom looks for grownup girls—strapless, short flared dresses in violet, gray or apple green cotton.And finally, Ron Leal, who’s been designing since the late Sixties, brought the best of his experience to the spirited and elegant Pamela Roland collection. While his daywear was great — that black hooded cashmere sweatshirt and white cutout miniskirt, for example— it was the evening looks that stood out. Case in point: A black-and-white Forties-inspired floral silk dress with ruffles at the hem and along the torso. He also did one in linen over an organza petticoat and a sculpted crepe look draped snugly at the sides.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion