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Mixing The Naughty And Nice

<CS:BOLD>PARIS -- The Salon International de la Lingerie took on a two-sided personality last month: a bold and saucy mix of Silkette-inspired looks from the motion picture "Moulin Rouge," mixed with a fantasy lineup of ethereal sheers and gossamer...

PARIS — The Salon International de la Lingerie took on a two-sided personality last month: a bold and saucy mix of Silkette-inspired looks from the motion picture “Moulin Rouge,” mixed with a fantasy lineup of ethereal sheers and gossamer metallics worthy of “A Midsummer’s Night Dream.”

Always a prolific presentation of directional concepts, the Brand Fashion Show featured 300 silhouettes and 90 brands in an opera setting replete with red curtains, a romantic rose-and-gray-tinted background and a soundtrack of the late opera diva Maria Callas.

Opening with the cabaret spirit of the glory days of Montmartre and La Belle Époque, key brands included Lejaby, Argentovivo, Feraud, Huit, Passionatta, Mey, Barbara, Chiarugi and Gossard. Among the top ideas were:

Corsets, Merry Widows, garter belts and the all-important thong in cherry, lacquer red and burgundy combined with black.

Triangular embroideries, embroidered florals, velvet knots and lace ribbons, tattoo and ombre effects, and Toulouse-Lautrec-inspired rose prints.

A boundless number of supersexy Chantilly lace numbers.

The second major theme showcased a roundup of bustiers, bras and high-rise panties in liquid-looking metallics of copper, gold, pewter and silver, along with shimmery mother-of-pearl finishes and sparkle treatments, often embellished with butterflies and birds of prey motifs. Special effects here included stretch tulle layered over Tactel microfiber knit and a Lycra spandex stretch voile paired with shiny Leavers lace. Among the brands portraying this theme were Chantelle, Bolero, Ravage, Aubade, First and Lejaby.

The fair also presented visitors with a variety of colorful distractions called “Non-Stop Fashion Info,” which included:

The Ultra Lingerie Forum, a display of 67 brands on forms created by Carlin International.

An exhibit of vintage corsets ranging from circa 1800 to present day, from Parisian boutique Les Nuits de Satin.

The Atelier Lingerie, a concept shop created by Concepts Paris that explored merchandising ideas around a theme entitled, “The Temptation of Modern Lingerie.” The theme, as described by director Jos Berry, highlighted “the increasing role of lingerie as a universal fashion product and the emotional dimension which is hidden behind each brand.”

Two areas at the Atelier illustrated the theme “Discovery,” which examined seduction and sex appeal with brands such as Mixona’s African, Indian and Japanese-inspired pajamas; luxury at-homewear by Marie-Claude Fremau; junior lingerie by Christian Cane, and novelty panties by Spatz.

The second area, which Berry described as “commercial,” focused on 11 brands: Calvin Klein, Verde Veronica, Argentovivo, Marie-Jo, Chiarugi, Aubade, Chantelle, Barbara, Simone Perele, Lise Charmel and Princesse Tam Tam.

Key merchandising ideas included a softly illuminated wall to display bras; a surreal wrought-iron tree with fabric and lace leaves that featured a soothing soundtrack of singing song birds, and clear, ultramodern mannequin fixtures lining the walls, which highlighted the delicate detailing of sheers and laces.