By  on February 1, 2005

NEW YORK — Isaac Mizrahi and Gianfranco Ferré are the latest designers to layer their businesses with more fur.

Both designers work with fur, but are adding new labels, Isaac Mizrahi for Alixandre Furs and Gianfranco Ferré White for fall 2005.

Isaac Mizrahi for Alixandre Furs is a diffusion collection of fur-trimmed and shearling coats that will wholesale from $700 to $3,000. Alixandre also makes the designer’s high-end fur collection, which is sold under the Isaac Mizrahi New York label at Bergdorf Goodman and other select stores. That collection wholesales for $2,000 to $60,000.

“This will not be your typical navy peacoat with a mink collar lapel,’’ said Larry Schulman, vice president of Alixandre Furs. “We’re incorporating Isaac’s palette and his ability to create and mix products together.”

The 10-piece collection will be offered in surprising colors like charcoal, pink, lavender and silver. It will be unveiled at this month’s Fashion Coterie trade show and should be available in 100 specialty stores this fall, Schulman said.

While Mizrahi’s upscale fur collection was produced to help the Target-backed designer’s high-low image, his new collection is more about making money. First-year projected wholesale volume for the diffusion collection is $2 million to $3 million, Schulman said.

The Gianfranco Ferré White fur collection is being produced by Mondialpelli SpA, the designer’s longtime business partner and maker of his existing fur line. Furs under his more upscale Black label are made by a variety of companies, a Gianfranco Ferré spokeswoman said.

Ferré’s White label will wholesale from $650 to $7,000 and is expected to be sold in 10 to 15 stores. First-year projected wholesale volume is $350,000, said Michela Piva, chief executive officer of Gianfranco Ferré.

Not one for understatement, Ferré’s new collection will feature nutria, lamb, rabbit, weasel and Afghan karakul printed in wild designs or with denimlike effects. Bomber jackets, trenchcoats, blouson jackets and parkas are some of the silhouettes. The outerwear will be sheared to varying lengths, knitted and embossed with inlays such as tulle or reversible linings like Prince of Wales wool. Some pieces will have unexpected touches such as Chantilly lace.The designer is also being playful with the color palette. Natural tones like ivory, hazelnut and bark are mixed together or accented with traces of pistachio green. Midnight blue, navy and black are also offered, sometimes with a flash of bright orange.

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