NEW YORK — Only Isaac Mizrahi could read fur as a silver metallic shearling.
That is among the unconventional styles in his new fur collection for Alixandre Furs, which is on display at the Fashion Coterie trade show through Tuesday.
Out to try to erase younger women’s somewhat dated view of fur coats, Mizrahi has come up with 14 mostly shearling-lined pieces, including a jean jacket, a cropped blazer, parka, peacoat and a toggle coat. Instead of being housed solely in coat departments of department and better specialty stores, the collection hopes to find a home in Scoop and other stores popular with style-conscious customers.
There are also plans for Mizrahi to do a more upscale fur collection with Alixandre, to be introduced in April, that will retail from $1,700 to $8,000.
During an interview Thursday at Mizrahi’s showroom, Larry Schulman, vice president of Alixandre Furs, insisted this is not another case of an absentee designer slapping his name on a new category. “We don’t take liberties here. We have good taste, but we’re not the designer.”
In fact, Schulman and Mizrahi have known each other for 25 years, since their days working with Perry Ellis. Once the madcap designer was doing his own line, he turned to Alixandre to make a big sable coat, which Iman wore in one of his first runway shows. “Remember? It was stolen after the show,” said Mizrahi. With his varied interests and theatrical tendencies, there always seems to be a back story with Mizrahi, such as “the doughnut,” the designer’s nickname for a ring-shaped fur that was designed to be worn any which way, that Alixandre made for another runway show.
Mizrahi credits Schulman for teaching him the ropes about fur. “Yes, he’s graduated from our Fur 101,” said Schulman.
Isaac Mizrahi for Alixandre will retail from $1,400 to $3,000 and is expected to be sold in 100 stores this fall. First-year projected wholesale volume is between $2 million and $2.6 million, Schulman said.
Tracy Geller-Doyle, vice president of marketing and sales for Isaac Mizrahi for Alixandre, said, “I don’t anticipate walking into the Coterie and seeing anything like this. Isaac and Larry have really gone to bat to put the best line out there.”Truth be told, Isaac Mizrahi for Alixandre is one of the first collections Coterie shoppers see, since the booth is strategically positioned right near the main entrance. Don’t look for the “Unzipped” star to be hawking the line, though. Oprah Winfrey has called on his expertise for a post-Oscar critique on her show today. As for whether he will plug the new fur line on the show, the enterprising Target designer said: “Oh, I don’t know. There’s so much I have to mention.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast