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Chaiken: Sticking to what they do best, Julie Chaiken and Jeff Mahshie showed some masculine, slouchy sweaters and trousers that were wonderfully casual, but the oversized Asian touches detracted from the clothes.
Temperley London: Alice Temperley’s strength was found in her cool-toned Victorian separates, but she lost focus with oddly placed Pucci-esque prints and vivid colors.
Chris Benz: His tender 24 years could explain the tomboyish, slightly rumpled vibe of Chris Benz’s layered separates, but fresh mixes of color and well-thought-out detailing made his debut collection a real treat.
H Fredriksson: Although Helena Fredriksson’s lineup of silky lightweight dresses didn’t wow, she did show some promising outerwear in the form of sculpted jackets and coats.
Barbara Tfank: Barbara Tfank might have been channeling Pauline Trigère with tweedy Empire coats, little A-line dresses and the dramatic, ruffled opera coat over a sheath — perfect for those well-heeled Upper East Siders.
Gemma Kahng: Gemma Kahng’s primarily black collection had the somber yet elegant aesthetic of the Edwardian era with high necks and tulle accents on fluid frocks.
Jovovich-Hawk: Sophistication of the retro sort is back in style for Milla Jovovich and Carmen Hawk, who draped a high-waisted evening skirt paired with a printed silk blouse, and trimmed a sleek skirt suit with patent leather.
Tibi: Amy Smilovic’s playful and graphic Tibi collection featured short plaid belted coats and frocks with origami details, which were refreshing additions to her wearable fare.
Doucette Duvall: For their second showing, Stephanie Doucette and Annebet Duvall crafted charming patterned coats and vintage-esque dresses to good effect.
Tocca: He’s known for his perfect little dresses, but this season Tocca’s Edoardo Mantelli expanded his reach with a few perfectly feminine blouses, flippy skirts and flirtatious coats.