A.F. Vandevorst: Duality in layered, monochrome male-female couplings was the underlying theme for designers Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst's 10th anniversary collection, seen in a tailored cape jacket, say, worn over a soft velvet dress, or in a vermilion-hued silk blouse layered over a mannish coat.

Cacharel: For their debut collection, presented on mannequins bedecked with playful animal masks, Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto went back to school with girly dresses and knits printed with colorful graphics, including images of the Eiffel Tower, certain to brighten up wintry days.

Bruno Pieters: Belgian designer Bruno Pieters' elegant, gender-bending collection hinged on gray stick-to-the-ribs suits worn with cashmere trenchcoats and tailored jackets paired with pants wrapped at the waist or floor-length woolen skirts.

Cher Michel Klein: Riffing on Eighties classics, Michel Klein sent out a lineup of body-conscious knitwear, men's tailoring and shimmering dresses.

Bless: Desiree Heiss and Ines Kaag were in full transportation mode — showing in an airplane hangar-like space as models played with remote-control cars and helicopters — and they delivered great travel-friendly clothes, such as cozy knits and slouchy coats, plus a few kooky Oriental rug-turned-jackets with a magic carpet-ride vibe.

Gaspard Yurkievich: Brazilian designer Gaspard Yurkievich evoked Seventies Parisian chic à la the young Loulou de la Falaise, viewed through his ever-kitsch lenses, showing scarf-print dresses with chunky golden chains, zip-splattered tailored jumpsuits and quilted nylon pantsuits.

Peachoo & Krejberg: For their Paris debut, Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg turned out a moody lineup of voluminous dresses, some with woolen embroidery, and elegantly constructed crocheted sweaters draped over chiffon dresses and flowing trousers.

Véronique Leroy: While Véronique Leroy's multicolored tweed jackets and A-line skirts offered a conservative option for the Ladies Who Lunch, her body-hugging red or electric-blue knit dresses and oversize knits were unflattering.

Manish Arora: Favoring fantasy over reality, Indian designer Manish Arora delivered a dizzyingly vibrant, glitter-heavy parade of Eastern gladiators clad in armor-inspired embroidered costumes.Robert Normand: A yellow wool coat with exaggerated feminine contours was one of the few standout pieces in Robert Normand's minidress-centric lineup, which was confused by a mishmash of inspirations, including pop artist Peter Stämpfli, 19th-century German tapestries and a dash of disco.

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