Sportmax: Out of the porthole came a bevy of retro beauties in sleek naval suits, high-waisted cotton tap pants and some slick lacquered tops for a high-seas outing with plenty of legs. Iceberg: Disco flash and athletic garb is Iceberg's tried-and-true formula, and for spring that meant oversize gold Windbreakers over shorts, fitted jackets with loose jodhpurs, cutout bodysuits and minidresses in all shapes and sizes.

Pollini by Rifat Ozbek: Ozbek's message was sweet, pretty and filled with ethnic references in a parade of airy silk dresses, boxy shorts and blouses in madras and tribal prints, spruced up with shell and tortoise embellishments at the neckline.

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Alessandra Facchinetti's glinting, structured collection at Moncler was filled with scuba-inspired jackets in micro sequins, lightweight down Edwardian blousons and belted numbers with fabric insets that were haughty sportif.

Trussardi: Gaia Trussardi's third collection for her family's company was a mélange of hippie-chic tailoring and artfully cut suede coats that made for a stronger, though still evolving, direction for the house.

La Perla: Those expecting a romp of lingerie-derived clothes got wearable summer classics instead — a fringed coatdress, snakeskin-print columns, sleek pantsuits and peasant blouses over shorts — more suited for outdoor living than boudoir lounging.

Schumacher: Designer Dorothee Schumacher-Singhoff straddled two sides of dressing — Audrey Hepburn chic and voluminous, free-flowing chiffons — for a commercial collection with plenty of appeal.

Brunello Cucinelli: Sweating it out at Brunello Cucinelli is a stylish affair as the designer wraps his sportif customers in cashmere track tops, finely spun jersey tanks and sweat pants.

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