Wide-ranging soundtracks and live performances blanketed the runways across all four fashion cities, from classical to punk, groovy to jazzy, with a slew of original tunes, too.
In New York, Rag & Bone used a custom mix produced by friend Thom Yorke of Radiohead while Marc Jacobs opened with the Jaws theme followed by an instrumental fit for a horror flick that complemented the post-apocalyptic beach set. At a decidedly more upbeat beach, Tommy Hilfiger’s boardwalk runway, replete with sand dunes and surfboards, grooved to a soundtrack of The Beach Boys’ “Surfin’ U.S.A.,” “California Girls” and “Good Vibrations.”
Among the live gigs, Natalia “Saw Lady” Paruz improvised at Yeohlee with a musical saw, Tibetan bells and wind chimes for a tranquil vibe; Grammy-nominated R&B/soul singer Alice Smith performed three songs from her latest album She at Michael Bastian, while soul revivalist Nick Waterhouse and his band sang five songs from his album Time’s All Gone at David Hart. Jesse Herrero of Cuban charanga orchestra SonSublime put together a three-piece band and played Cuban-inspired songs at Tracy Reese; jazz band The Recessionals did a Thirties-style set at Saunder, and at Y-3, five drummers played an original piece by Jiro Amimoto, which ended with designer Yohji Yamamoto jumping on a kit for an impromptu moment.
In London, designer Jean-Pierre Braganza collaborated on an original score with a former bandmate, and Anya Hindmarch’s music, produced by Silent Studios, sparked a planetarium vibe with aerial handbags inspired by weightlessness. Playing live were alt-rock band Wolf Alice at Todd Lynn and a classical ensemble at Erdem.
Milan’s interesting mix included a Trent Reznor playlist at Versace with four tunes by Nine Inch Nails and one from his other band, How to Destroy Angels. Fifties-style cha-cha and mambo rhythms set the mood at Dsquared2 with songs like “Mambo Caliente” by Mambo Kings. Two live spots: disco queen Gloria Gaynor celebrated Moschino’s 30th anniversary, and rising rap star Iggy Azalea sang at Philipp Plein.
Paris was an exercise in juxtaposition. Dior mixed techno beats with classical music; Véronique Leroy spliced German Punk with classical composer Igor Stravinsky; Valentino layered spoken word over Puccini, Verdi, Glass and others. Comme des Garçons gave each model her own tune on the runway—in some cases, it sounded like a tinny radio somewhere in a third-world country.
Live gigs included Radiohead bassist Colin Greenwood at Dries Van Noten, and The Hives front man Howlin’ Pelle Almqvist at Acne Studios’ show with an operatic performance based on the Swedish poem Till Havs (“Out to Sea”). Senegalese percussion ensemble Sing Sing Rhythms opened and closed Givenchy, Issey Miyake featured Japanese musician Ei Wada, performing under the name Braun Tube Jazz Band, who worked his magic on a lineup of old TVs using their electromagnetic properties to change light into sound by tapping the screens.
Top 10 Playlist
• Million Dollar Bills by Lorde (Richard Chai)
• Lounge Act by Nirvana (Helmut Lang)
• She’s on Fire by King Tuff (Marc by Marc Jacobs)
• Sunshine by Rye Rye featuring M.I.A. (Mulberry)
• You Got Good Taste by The Cramps (Sister by Sibling)
• Bring the Noize by M.I.A. (Henry Holland, Prada, Manish Arora)
• I Want Candy by Bow Wow Wow (Razed in Black Remix) (Prada)
• BBB (Big Black Boots) by How to Destroy Angels (Versace)
• Picasso Baby by Jay Z (Chanel)
• Get Like Me by Nelly featuring Nicki Minaj and Pharrell (Chloé)
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty