Citrus brights stood side by side with elegant, monochrome looks on the Paris runways.
Chado Ralph Rucci: Ralph Rucci got some very bad advice. How else to explain his decision to close a season of four cities and 500-plus shows at 8:30 on Sunday night? And in showing both his spring ready-to-wear and fall couture collections together, he sent out a whopping 75 looks for his weary audience to digest.
No one can argue with the quality. Rucci's fabrics, sourced from the top of the ultraluxe tier, make expensive-looking canvases for his crafty, considered details. The Asian obi effects and Da Vinci-inspired illustrations on filmy silk dresses represented Rucci's art and architecture stance — this time pushed toward the future with some zipper and plastic swirl details. There were beautiful things, an ivory wool dress with braided stitching from his spring rtw and a long gray wool jersey couture dress and matching coat that showed Rucci's understated Zen side. And if the fussier fare, like plumed gowns, arty abstract prints and roped leather jackets that appeared in both collections, isn't everyone's cup of tea, they will tickle his mature, moneyed clientele.
Sonia Rykiel: It's hard not to get caught up in the high-energy, giddy spirit of a Sonia Rykiel show. The soundtrack's upbeat and her models come flying down the catwalk intoxicatingly cheerful — this time, they high-fived one another or skipped and twirled their way like freewheeling nymphs. And, of course, there are the clothes. Rykiel is all about the pretty and playful, and for spring, she served up a number of cheeky trompe l'oeil knits as well as light-as-air goddess gowns paired with feathery shrugs and boas. Swimwear came accented with rubbery floral appliqués, and her dresses with tight rows of fluttery petals trailing across the body or around the neckline. Accessories, too, were charming, as in a whimsical bunny hat or bejeweled butterfly hair clips. Even the sweaters wrapped around the head like turbans were amusing. But perhaps there's more cause for celebration than just the fashion — next year will mark the firm's 40th birthday.
Elie Saab: Anyone who's had the pleasure of seeing an Elie Saab show knows how much the man adores red-carpet-worthy dresses. So much so that a Saab collection without a glamour dress (or how about 50 of them?) is like a hot-fudge sundae without a cherry on top. For spring — quelle surprise — his dresses came sequined, ruffled or finished with a bow. To be fair, there were pretty numbers: a long bustier dress in yellow taffeta; a shimmering short dress in black sequins; a yellow satin gown embroidered with silver sequins, and the black and green floral-print taffeta dress that started the show. But for all the fine fluff, the collection produced a feeling of going back — and back again — for second helpings.Rue du Mail: It looks like Martine Sitbon is still getting into the groove of her new collection, Rue du Mail, now in its second season. The shiny chiffon dresses replete with Japanese geometry, either by way of graphic prints or origami-esque construction, captured her arty, ethereal spirit. And while there were good ideas in the complicated cuts, the execution and some of the fabrics, that last set of plastic-y, printed transparencies were off.
Kenzo: Now a few years into his tenure at Kenzo, Antonio Marras has succeeded in creating a quirky, oddball universe that draws on the house's colorful, multiethnic heritage. For spring, he took a voyage deep into the jungle with a surrealistic stage set of suspended plants, dangling plastic tubes and exotic birds projected on TV screens. The clothes were a testament to the designer's proclivity for volume and mélange: a yellow pleated dress with a sequined floral pattern, big coats and pleated skirts, kimono-style dresses and geometric-print trousers paired with an A-line floral top. But not all animals live in the jungle. Marras' geometric-patterned color-blocked dress, columnar Hawaiian print dress and those of colorful feathers would be equally at home in a discothèque. Though charming, Marras' wild menagerie could use a bit of taming before crossing over into the real world.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty