PARIS — With fall trends pointing in just about every direction, retailers attending Tranoï, Capsule and Woman here from March 4 to 7 had largely increased their midmarket spend.“We discovered many new young designers and today we’re adding more than five new brands per week,” said Arbia Smiti, founder and chief executive officer of online platform Carnet de Mode. “We’re back to simple and clean lines, prints with geometric structure and wavelike lines or florals and vintage imagery, a mix of materials, leather with suede and denim or nylon, and an Eighties pop gamers style; logo prints, pop colors, humor motifs.” New discoveries among a greater on-year spend for Smiti included Italian label Elisa Biroli and Maiami knitwear at Capsule.“We found a lot of brands at Woman,” said Cécilia Steiner, buyer for Stockholm’s Nitty Gritty concept store. “Like the runway, it’s very diverse, there’s every possible taste; we’re not driven by trends, more style,” she said naming “big, chunky hand knitted pieces” by Australian brand I Love Mr. Mittens and Fay Andrada's hand-cut metal jewelry as standouts. “It really managed to shine through in my world. Very interesting shapes," she said.Lauding the color palette of a more masculine dark green, bordeaux mixed with colors like pink and yellow, Uwe Maier, owner of Bungalow in Stuttgart, was less sold on the season’s mid-shin hemline. “I am not sure about the skirt length,” he said.Showing its first fall collection at Woman, Italian-Korean label Neul picked up some big new accounts for its storyline taking its stylish but wacky city girl on a farm visit. Think oversize cropped pants in mud brown, a denim skirt, all accessorized with a brooch featuring anything from a carrot to an eggplant. Seeking European department store accounts for its riot of yarn-dyed woven delights, Ace & Jig did brisk business with such items as a reversible capella coat in yellow with a patchwork lapel of shearling in collaboration with U.K.-based designer Milena Silvano.Retailers were upbeat about the diversity of trends. “Now fashion is changing, going back to the Seventies, we’re looking for new designers, people have got bored with the old designers, they always want something new, fresh and affordable,” said Iona Abdou, owner of Royal Fashion in Cairo. Shopping for just a few pieces from the winter collections to suit Egypt’s temperate climate, she eyed a multicolored fur coat from Giorgio Brato at Tranoï: “It’s a passe-partout, from the morning to the evening, you can wear it with anything.”“There’s two different directions; the dark, strong, Goth style — how designers are dressing — and then the organic, healthy direction,” said Tera Feng, fashion buyer for Hong Kong Kuan Concept Fashion Co. Feng named Beira, a comfort-led genderless sportswear collection and the minimalistic organic line by Bleu de Cocagne as standouts. Reviving a hand-dyeing technique using woad leaves, each Bleu de Cocagne design is dipped in woad baths until the right shade is reached, a technique for which the artisans have been awarded the label Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, or Living Heritage Label.A growing streetwear-fashion storyline was welcomed by Assya Khalidi, owner of Concrete concept store and women’s sneaker store No Boys Allowed in The Hague, as she held up a bejeweled sneaker by Esseutesse. “I wouldn’t wear them but it’s different. Our customers are between 20 and 80 and most of the women who buy sneakers are about 50 years old, I think she’ll buy this.” Browsing Tranoï, Khalidi said her spend was up since “everything is more expensive than it used to be. People are buying more expensive stuff you can use for a long time.”While quiet was the word in the aisles, the number of planned store openings suggested confidence in the bricks-and-mortar multibrand: Lia Coehlo shopped for Dual Investments’ fall opening of Le 66 in Dubai, Motohiko Anzai, buyer for Japan’s Antelope store was shopping the oversize trend with a 200% hike in budget for a new shops-in-shop concept in an undisclosed department store. “People are ready to do business, and there are some great products” said Kim Patterson, a fashion veteran opening a high-end multibrand boutique in Aix-en-Provence this year. Patterson named Wonderology, a trompe l’oeil Swiss jewelry collection using plexiglas and twill silk scarves by Aquade among her top picks at Tranoï’s Cité de la Mode.Lauding the clean lines of made in Spain bags at Steve Mono, for “incredible leathers, classic with edge,” Elizabeth Jeffer, founder of luxury bag e-tailer Roztayger said she was raising her budget a cautiously optimistic 30 percent. “There’s so much volatility and it’s an election year.”Others were less positive. “We’re looking for something different. We’re not finding it. It’s either the same brands, or different brands, same fabrics, same designs,” said Rebecca Schneider, owner of outlet store Mouton à Cinq Pattes in Paris. “I’m seeing a lot of very simple silhouettes, a lot of the same ones,” agreed Yurika Saito, shopping for a Tokyo multibrand store set to open later this year. “I’m looking for strong concepts that stand out in design to make it contemporary.”With admission to its faire free of charge if you pre-registered online, Tranoï grew visitors 3 percent, showing some 600 women's wear labels across three locations. Capsule showed more than 90 labels and Woman some 80 collections.
“I think what’s so interesting about the #MeToo movement and this whole new wave of feminism in general, is that women are finally seeing, ’Oh I can start my own company, oh I can lear to code, oh I can leave my nine-to-five job and do the thing I want to do,” said @brooklyndecker ahead of her @sxsw talk for @createcultivate. The former model took the stage to share wisdom about networking and female-driven entrepreneurship. #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.